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2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Branaire-Ducru is a gorgeous, super-expressive wine that captures all of the natural radiance of the year. Black cherry, leather, spice, cedar, tobacco and scorched earth envelop the palate, framed by silky tannins that give this supple Saint-Julien so much charm. The 2005 is a very easy wine to drink and enjoy today, but…

Cellar Favorite: 1928-2011 Lascombes (Oct 2022)

The 2005 Lascombes, served from jeroboam, has a well-defined nose with scents of blackberry, brine and cassis aromas percolating up with time, nicely focused. The palate is medium-bodied, with hints of menthol and liquorice infusing the black fruit. There is good density here though it is just missing a little finesse toward the finish. I…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

(52% cabernet sauvignon, 45% merlot and 3% petit verdot) Good bright ruby. Blueberry and licorice on the nose, lifted by spicy oak. Chewy, lush and dense, but with a sappy quality giving shape to the fruit. Very tactile, solid wine with a saline quality suggesting energetic extraction. But this offers impressive mouth coverage and finishes…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Gruaud Larose has an attractive bouquet with brambly black fruit, freshly tilled loam and melted tar scents that gently unfold in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and a superb line of acidity that keeps this Saint-Julien tensile from start to finish. Plenty of energy here and beautifully proportioned, this…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright red-ruby. Blackcurrant, smoke, tobacco and leather on the nose, with hints of game and earth. Round, lush and seamless in the mouth; shows an animal aspect yet comes across as civilized owing to well-judged extraction. Enticing sweetness to the flavors of dark and red berries and wild herbs, lifted by a note of candied…

An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 2010 Gruaud Larose has a more capable nose than the previous vintage, with layers of red and black fruit, a touch of garrigues and pressed flowers. Lovely delineation, this gains intensity with aeration and shades the previous vintage. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, fresh and vibrant. It has better salinity than the…