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The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Bright ruby-red. Black cherry, leather and strong graphite minerality on the nose. Silky, sweet and suave, with dark fruit flavors lifted by a violet element and given grip and definition by a strong mineral spine. Wonderfully deep, ripe Pauillac with strong early sexy appeal. Finishes very bright and long, with serious but sweet tannins. Deceptively…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Haut Brion is another vintage that I have not seen for a number of years. It has a light, maybe slight smudged nose that is quite leafy in style, autumnal, hints of bay leaf and a light marine influence developing but never quite delivering the vigor of its sibling, the 1988 La Mission…

Vinous Table: Zoldering, Amsterdam, Netherlands (Feb 2024)

The 1998 Château Margaux showed better than my previous bottle five or six years ago. Dark berry fruit mixed with pressed iris flower on the nose, a dab of potpourri and exotic flirtations with fig, this opens wonderfully in the glass. The palate is now mature with a crisp line of acidity, vibrant though not…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Château Margaux is a vintage that I have not tasted for a decade. Now at 20 years old it has retained a deep garnet colour with very little ageing on the rim, in fact, one of the most youthful-looking 1998 Left Banks that I encountered. The nose is gorgeous: very well defined with…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Medium ruby. Cool, floral aromas of red berries, violet, cocoa powder, graphite and spicy oak, along with a whiff of smoked meat. Juicy, sharply delineated and austere; a classic, adamantly dry claret with superb intensity and grip. This is beginning to close up, unlike the ’99. But really expands on the very long, perfumed finish….

Cellar Favorite: 1995 Haut-Brion (Nov 2021)

This 1995 Haut-Brion was served blind during the summer at a private dinner in Bordeaux, a bottle with perfect provenance. It is a vintage that I have drunk several times, but not since 2013. Deep in colour, the 1995 has plenty of black fruit on the nose, displaying a distinctive briny influence, classic in style…