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1997 Vintage Ports (May 2000)

Good full ruby. Lightly floral aromas of blackcurrant, maple syrup, mocha, espresso and fresh herbs. Lush and medium-sweet, with very good intensity, bright acidity and a deep, tight core of fruit. Subtle and juicy rather than unctuous or powerful, and impeccably balanced. Long, youthfully aggressive finish features a note of dark chocolate and sneaky persistence….

2016 Brunello di Montalcino: Radiance Personified (Nov 2020)

The 2015 Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto is remarkably fresh and balanced despite its large-scale persona. Minty herbs give way to raspberry and cherry with exotic spices and a hint of pine resin. It boasts depths of silky textures; yet it remains juicy and full of energy, displaying ripe red and black fruits,…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(70% merlot, 25% cabernet sauvignon and 5% malbec) Medium-deep ruby-red. Sexy red-berry cocktail aromas of raspberry and strawberry spiked by cinnamon. Creamy-smooth on entry, boasting extremely sweet and impressively intense red berry and red cherry flavors. Finishes long, with the slightest hint of youthfully aggressive tannins. I found a strong family resemblance between this wine…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Roc de Cambes is quite backward like the 2009 La Gomerie with ample redcurrant, raspberry, loam and sandalwood aromas eventually coming through with aeration. It does not quite possess the cohesion of its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, velvety smooth in texture with a lovely dash of black pepper and…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Medium dark red. Fragrant violet, raspberry and sweet brown spices on the captivating nose. Then compellingly sweet and tactile, with intense ripe red fruit and chocolate flavors that last and last on the smooth, soft aftertaste. Good wine for the money–although Steve Tanzer reminded me that he bought a case of the 1989 en primeur…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)

Pale color. Youthful aromas of lemon, quince, pear, toast, spice, chalk and red berries. Big, sweet and seamless, if a bit clenched in the early going. A powerful, very young wine whose fruit builds slowly in the mouth and explodes on the finish. A charry note contributes to its complexity. Possesses amazing depth of fruit,…