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The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright ruby-red. Serious medicinal reserve to the aromas of iron, violet and coconutty oak. A real mineral bath on the palate, with outstanding concentration and energy to the flavors of dark berries and flowers. Hiding more than it’s showing today and destined for three or four decades of improvement in bottle. The remarkably palate-staining finish…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a 55/45 blend of cabernet franc and merlot; cropped at 27 hectoliters per hectare; ph 3.56; 14.5% alcohol; 100% new oak) Bright, saturated ruby-red. Very cabernet franc- and limestone-driven on the nose, offering enticing scents of red berries, cocoa, spicy minerals and violet. Impressively intense flavors of red and dark berries are complicated by bitter…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Ausone has a sumptuous bouquet with pure blackberry, raspberry, rose petal and orange blossom aromas. The wine is beautifully defined blossoms with aeration. It becomes very liquorice and menthol-like after 10 minutes’ aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin. It is not a powerful 2009 and it feels sleek and quite tensile….

Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reds: The Flamboyant 2014s and the Structured 2013s (Apr 2016)

Brilliant ruby. Smoky red berry and cherry scents show very good clarity and pick up a floral element with air. Supple, open-knit and juicy, conveying a suggestion of white pepper that sharpens pliant raspberry and cherry cola flavors. The spicy quality repeats on the smooth, expansive and persistent finish, which shows just hint of fine-grained,…

Ornellaia: A Major Retrospective 1985-2006 (Dec 2009)

The 1999 Ornellaia (magnum) does not disappoint. This vivid, energetic wine emerges from the glass with a myriad of graphite, menthol, licorice, leather and dark fruit wrapped around a powerful core. The bouquet alone is worth the price of admission. Though not as opulent as the 1997, the 1999 offers exceptional length and a finessed,…

New Wines from the Tuscan Coast (Jul 2003)

(65% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot and 5% cabernet franc) Deep, saturated ruby. The reluctant raspberry nose is followed by ultraripe plum and blackcurrant flavors that penetrate the inner mouth in this extraordinarily plush and fat wine. Bitter chocolate and a hint of vanilla complete the sensory attack. The back end is supported by firm but…