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An Exploration of Time: Gruaud Larose 1831-2018 (Mar 2024)

The 2010 Gruaud Larose has a more capable nose than the previous vintage, with layers of red and black fruit, a touch of garrigues and pressed flowers. Lovely delineation, this gains intensity with aeration and shades the previous vintage. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, fresh and vibrant. It has better salinity than the…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(66% cabernet sauvignon, 28% merlot and 6% petit verdot; 78 IPT; 14% alcohol; 50% new oak) Inky-purple. Intense aromas of cassis and dark plum are complicated by earthy underbrush. Very sweet and supple in the mouth, with a juicy quality to the bright red cherry, tobacco and mushroom flavors. Finishes with mounting but polished tannins…

Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Gruaud Larose is maturing nicely on the nose: well defined red and black fruit intermingling, hints of meat juices and a subtle briny scents that seems to gain intensity in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins. This Gruaud-Larose displays fine body and density, a slightly powdery texture with hints…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good full, deep red. Superripe aromas of redcurrant, plum, cherry, flowers and beefsteak tomato. Sweet, fat and full, but less wild and expressive today than the 2006. Distinct notes of milk chocolate and roasted berries. The major tannins currently cut off the wine’s fruit. Impressively rich but lacks a spark: is this too ripe for…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Haut-Bailly is unbelievably finessed from start to finish. A wine of unreal class, the 2005 impresses with its silky, mid-weight personality and fantastic balance. The aromatics aren’t fully expressive today, but everything else about the 2005 is absolutely irresistible. Despite its considerable charm, Haut-Bailly comes across as still needing time in bottle to…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good bright medium ruby. Deep aromas of plum, currant, tobacco, mocha and menthol. Superripe and rich but with superb ripe acidity and firm tannins currently keeping the fruit and mineral elements under wraps. Just this side of severe today: here’s a 2005 that appears already to have shut down in the bottle. Best today on…