Archives: Product Reviews

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Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 1982 Léoville Poyferré has long been one of my favorite Saint-Julien wines, and this does not disappoint. Dark in color, it has a gorgeous bouquet of mulberry, raspberry, melted tar and rose petal aromas, and a little exoticism courtesy of a dab of fig. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins and quite dense…

Bordeaux 2011: Tales of Tannins and Terroir (May 2012)

(a 55/45 blend of merlot and cabernet sauvignon; 90 IPT): Fully saturated ruby-purple. Richer and deeper on the nose than the Alter Ego, offering ripe blackberry and chocolate aromas accented by minerals and violet. Juicy and intense, with lovely lift to the small berry fruit flavors. Finishes pure and long, with smooth tannins and lovely…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Palmer has a delineated, focused, razor-sharp bouquet with blackberry and bilberry scents, demonstrated more mineralité than its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins, moderate depth, straightlaced and uncomplicated with satisfying freshness and grip on the finish. Not memorable, but certainly well-crafted and might improve with continued bottle age. Tasted blind at…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Very good deep red color. Complex aromas of black cherry, currant, chocolate, herbs, licorice and tobacco leaf. Fairly sweet and dense on the palate, with very good concentration and firm acidity for the year. This is aged in 100% new oak, but the wood is very much in the background. Finishes very long and subtle,…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1997 Lafite-Rothschild is certainly one of the better First Growths of this somewhat maligned vintage. Gravel, pencil shavings and light tobacco notes furnish the mature nose that is open-knit and perhaps missing some vigour. The palate is medium-bodied with dry tannins, balanced and conveying some of Lafite’s elegance, yet it does taper quickly on…

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Montrachet 1978-2015 (Jun 2019)

Light on its feet and intensely aromatic, Dujac’s 1985 Clos La Roche is fabulous. A striking bouquet laced with the essence of sweet red cherry, tobacco, cedar and mint gives this super-refined, silky Burgundy much of its undeniable allure. At this stage, the 1985 is fully mature and peaking, but well-stored bottles will drink well…