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Châteauneuf du Pape: The Lively 2013s and Lush 2012s (Apr 2015)

Opaque ruby. An intensely perfumed bouquet evokes spicy dark berries and potpourri, with zesty mineral and incense qualities adding complexity. Pliant boysenberry and candied lavender flavors are impressively fresh and focused, with a hint of licorice adding depth. Closes sweet, supple and broad, with resonating spiciness and gentle tannins that add shape and grip.

2005 and 2004 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2007)

Dark red. A strong floral quality accents ripe blackberry, kirsch and licorice aromas. Very sweet and impressively suave, with ripe cherry and dark berry flavors nicely framed by supple tannins. Finishes long and juicy, with terrific staying power.

Focus on South Africa (Mar 2009)

(a blend of 66% cabernet sauvignon, 29% shiraz and 5% merlot) Bright medium ruby. Cassis, licorice and bitter chocolate aromas, along with a whiff of geranium. Densely packed but suave and fine-grained, with dark fruit and licorice flavors complicated by a Medoc-like weediness. Very smooth and vinous, conveying an impression of energy but also a…

Cellar Favorite: Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 1991-2019 (Jul 2022)

The 2006 Anwilka is a wine that I feel has not really kicked on with maturity in bottle. Compared to more recent vintages, this lacks a little presence on the nose, quite gamey and tertiary in style, touches of cigar humidor developing in the glass. It is quite sweet on the entry with vestiges of…

2014 Gigondas Charms While 2015 Stuns (Sep 2017)

Lurid ruby-red. Expressive aromas of ripe red berries, candied lavender and smoky minerals; a subtle garrigue nuance emerges with aeration. Juicy, concentrated and broad on the palate, offering pliant raspberry and bitter cherry flavors that become sweeter and more energetic with air. Shows very good depth and finishes long and gently tannic, with a lingering…

The Best New Wines from Spain, Part 1 (Jul 2007)

Deep ruby. Complex, heady bouquet of kirsch, candied plum, cured tobacco, licorice, dried rose and cedar. Pungent herbal notes build with aeration and repeat on the palate, adding complexity to the deep, ripe cherry and dark berry liqueur flavors. Remarkably elegant wine with precise cherry/berry flavors and a slow-mounting mocha quality on the long, sappy…