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The Grand Vin of the North: San Leonardo (Jul 2020)

San Leonardo reported that 2013 was one of their most balanced years in the set of recent vintages, and from the bouquet alone, I can already say that I agree. Here I’m finding a classic expression of cool-climate Bordeaux varieties, with fresh blackberry and raspberry, complemented by peppery florals and wild herbs. Smoky minerals add…

2014 Barolo: Surprise, Surprise… (Feb 2018)

In many ways, the gorgeous 2014 Barolo Lazzarito is the most surprising wine in the range. Once a stylistic outlier with a considerable French oak influence, today it is much closer to the other Barolos in terms of feel. Deep, dark and intense, with all of the energy of the year very much on display,…

Making the Case for New Zealand Reds (Mar 2021)

An impressive wine with a firm and powerful structure. While it has an elegant core, the overall impression is dark and brooding, with masses of gravelly tannin holding it all together, making for a wine that begs for bottle age. A lengthy finish offers classic, pepper spice, violets and fresh blackberries that fill the mouth…

New Zealand: Just For Starters (Nov 2018)

The 2016 Le Sol has a refined, pure bouquet with lifted blackberry, raspberry and violet aromas that burst from the glass (such a relief after the disappointing Te Muna). The palate is medium-bodied with ripe tannin and nicely judged acidity, quite backward and a little surly towards the finish, but there is balance and poise…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 La Conseillante was given a two-hour decant and then monitored over the following 12 hours. What a stupendous Pomerol! It has a bravura nose that immediately seduces the olfactory senses, delivering a cornucopia of black cherries, cassis, crushed violets and iris. Such intensity here, and then it blossoms, accentuating its floral component while…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 La Conseillante is a regal and utterly exquisite Pomerol from the very first taste. Technical Director Marielle Cazaux and her team turned out a jewel of a wine. Silky tannins and lifted, precise aromatics make a strong first impression. Inky dark fruit, pain grillé, lavender, spice, menthol and a kiss of new French…