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Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Ruby-purple. Vibrant blackcurrant, blackberry and smoke aromas show noteworthy depth and purity. Big and ripe on the palate, but with lovely balance to its black fruit and smoke flavors. The very long, pure finish features a lingering mineral streak and very fine tannins. This exceptional vintage of Pape Clement packs an amazing amount of concentration…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Pape-Clément is one of the few wines to comes across as a little dumb on the nose. It demands coaxing but eventually reveals lovely blackberry, raspberry, leather and sage aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, and fine bead of acidity. Grippy and quite masculine with a broad-shouldered, dense finish that suggests…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Pape Clément is a blockbuster. Rich, heady and explosive, the 2005 packs a serious punch. Inky black fruit, new leather, spice, menthol, chocolate, gravel and scorched earth are all kicked up in this decidedly flamboyant Pessac-Léognan. The 2005 boasts tremendous depth, but equally lavish new oak. Even with all of the oak, the…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Good deep red-ruby. Superripe, expressive nose offers black plum, smoke, spices and leather. Denser, sweeter and fatter than the 2006; even more generous and forward today. But this impressively chewy and rich wine also has a powerful underlying spine and plenty of lurking power. Finishes very ripe and very long, with the tannins buried by…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Cheval Blanc has an elegant, quite refined bouquet with brambly red fruit, scorched earth, terracotta and sage, very complex and harmonious. Could this be Figeac? [Post-script. No, but not far off!] The palate is medium-bodied with rounded tannins, quite plush and sensual, rich for this vintage with plenty of concentrated, quite sweet and…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Bright red-ruby. Ripe, scented aromas of raspberry, strawberry, violet, licorice, cedar and wild herbs on the knockout nose. Wonderfully sappy and juicy but not thick, with intense, very pure red berry, white pepper, floral and cedar flavors showing terrific thrust and lift. Finishes dense and long, with repeating floral, white pepper and red berry nuances….