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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Cos d'Estournel is a racy, powerful Saint-Estèphe that is going to need quite a bit of time to find its center. Today, it is tightly wound, but all the energy is there. Lush and extravagantly ripe, the 2018 possesses tremendous depth and plenty of energy to back it all up. Here, too, I…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Cos d’Estournel showed a lot of promise when I tasted it from barrel. Now in bottle and given a 2–3-hour decant, it has a gorgeous and disarmingly pure bouquet, slightly high-toned with iodine scents infusing the lush blackberry and boysenberry scents. The oak is seamlessly integrated. The palate is fresh and crisp on…

Northern Rhône: Solid ’14 Reds and Outstanding ’15 Whites (Jul 2017)

Bright purple. Vibrant aromas of ripe black and blue fruits, licorice and candied violet on the highly perfumed nose. Fleshy, seamless and energetic on the palate, offering juicy blackberry, bitter cherry and spicecake flavors that deepen and become sweeter on the back half. Closes on a smoky note, delivering building tannins, strong persistence and lingering…

Champagne: The 2017 Summer Preview (Jul 2017)

This is perhaps the best bottle of Krug’s 2002 Vintage I have tasted. Expansive and creamy on the palate, with lovely finesse and brightness, the 2002 is quite expressive today. I don’t see the depth or pedigree that might place this wine among the best examples of the year. Instead, the 2002 Vintage continues to…

2001 and 2000 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2003)

Red-ruby. Roasted aromas of black fruits, leather, maple syrup and mocha. Initially a bit tight on the palate, but showed a lush, seamless texture as it opened in the glass, without losing its definition. Not quite as dense as the 2001 but very full in the mouth, with a higher-pH impression. Finishes very long, with…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a blend of 51% merlot and 49% cabernet sauvignon) Ruby-red. Precise aromas of red cherry, blackcurrant, cocoa and minerals. Bright and fresh in the mouth, with luscious flavors of red and black berries. Finishes clean and long, with an obviously inky/flinty note and mounting tannins that will need some time to resolve fully. A very…