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1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Red-ruby. Rather evolved, chocolatey nose shows hints of oxidation. Too old in the mouth and starting to lose its fruit. This can’t be right. But I’ve found considerable variation with this wine, with some bottles showing classic Palmer aromas and flavors of dark berries and violet while others have been distinctly leathery and meaty, with…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

When the 1983 Palmer flies high, it touches the stars. This is another bottle proving that at 40 years old it is better now than ever before. It is completely resplendent on the nose that blossoms in the glass with that heady concoction of red and black fruit, freshly-rolled tobacco, violet petals and an underlying…

Northern Rhône: 2016 and 2017 Reds (Sep 2019)

Opaque ruby. Fresh black and blue fruits, violet, woodsmoke and a hint of olive on the deeply perfumed nose. Concentrated but energetic as well; a spine of juicy acidity sharpens the densely packed blueberry, bitter cherry and floral pastille flavors. The long, velvety finish features supple tannins, a touch of candied violet and lingering smokiness.

Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

An exotic mix of sweet smoke and cloves gives way to dusty black cherries and a twang of sour citrus as the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino unfolds in the glass. Further time reveals hints of animal musk and flowery undergrowth. This enters the palate with pure elegance, delicate and silky in feel, yet also delivering…

Brunello di Montalcino: The 2012 Brunellos & 2011 Riservas (Mar 2017)

Vivid ruby-violet; this wine’s color is much darker than San Filippo’s 2012 Brunello classico and a bit of a throwback to the Brunello hues that were routine a decade ago. Then also very dark on the nose and palate, with blueberry, blackcurrant and flnty notes dominating. With prolonged aeration (I retasted this twelve hours after…

Chianti Classico and Beyond – 2018 & 2019 (Sep 2021)

The 2016 Sammarco is a dense, flamboyant wine. Inky red fruit, spice, cedar, tobacco, menthol and licorice are some of the notes that build in a statuesque Sammarco that dazzles from start to finish. A wine of stunning textural richness and intensity, Sammarco is translucent, sculpted and full of character. All the elements are so…