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2014 and 2013 Northern Rhône: Great Wines If You Can Find Them (Mar 2016)

(aged for two years in one-third new and two-thirds used demi-muids): Bright violet. Exotic floral- and spice-accented aromas of fresh dark berries and incense on the intensely perfumed nose. Juicy, penetrating and spicy on the palate, with strong thrust to the sweet blackberry and cherry-vanilla flavors. A bright mineral quality adds focus and cut to…

Focus on Barbaresco – A Close Look at 2019 & 2020 (Oct 2022)

The 2019 Barbaresco Ronchi is a deep, potent wine. In this tasting, the Ronchi impresses with its stature, aromatic presence and textural intensity. Dark red cherry, red plum, cinnamon, rose petal and dried flowers emerge with a bit of coaxing, but the Ronchi is one of the least giving wines in the range today. I…

Argentina: Making It Work with Resilience and Stylistic Ingenuity (Nov 2022)

The 2019 Malbec Finca Piedra Infinita from the Uco Valley was aged in concrete. A vivid purple in the glass. The compact nose presents hints of fresh plum, blackberry and pinches of herbs such as thyme and bay leaf before floral violet and lavender aromas begin to develop. On the palate, it’s similarly compact with…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

One of the real highlights on the Left Bank, the 2005 Mouton Rothschild is a dark, potent Pauillac. Black cherry, plum, chocolate, spice and leather all take shape in the glass. The 2005 is a dense, powerful and explosive wine endowed with tremendous energy and pure power. The fruit is just starting to emerge, but…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

($1; 100-$1,400) Full ruby-red. Explosive, superripe aromas of black raspberry, currant, graphite and tobacco leaf. Outsized, opulent and generous; this big boy saturates the entire mouth. There’s an almost exotic character to the plum and cedar flavors. Spreads out impressively on the back end, coating the palate with ripe tannins. The 2006 is at once…

2013 Barolo: The Late Releases (Oct 2017)

Colla’s 2013 Barolo Bussia Dardi Le Rose is a knock-out. Intensely sweet and perfumed, the 2013 reminds me of some of the most profound Barolos and Barbarescos I have tasted. Ripe red cherry, pipe tobacco, mint, dried rose petal, orange peel and anise are some of the endless nuances that seem to develop in the…