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Cellar Favorite: 2002 & 2004 Dom Pérignon (Dec 2022)

I remember the first time I tasted the 2002 Dom Pérignon with then-Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy at Hautvillers. It was the upcoming release at the time. As was his custom, Geoffroy served the 2002 in a flight that included a number of previous releases. The bouquet was immediately stunning for its audacity. I had…

2006 and 2005 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2008)

Bright ruby. A room-filling bouquet suggests dark berries, kirsch, anise, pungent herbs and fresh violet. Thick and sweet, with luscious blackberry and cherry flavors, supple tannins and terrific finishing thrust. Really refuses to let go of the palate. Impressive for its elegance and power; my sample last year was clearly compromised.

Don’t Rain on My Parade: Mâconnais 2019/2020 (Nov 2021)

Coming from a selection of the oldest vines planted before the war and a selection of approximately 10 barrels, the 2019 Hommage à Léonard Chandon is very succinct on the nose with beautifully defined citrus peel, orange zest and light fumé notes. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity, the new…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

Pale, bright, green-tinged yellow. Vibrant scents of citrus fruits and white flowers. Silky, broad and refined, with its classic dryness leavened by an element of orchard fruit sweetness. Finishes dry, pure and persistent, with lingering notes of flowers and spices and the acidity, backbone and grip to support mid-term aging. This is always a rather…

Back to Burgfest: 2017 Whites – Blind (Aug 2021)

The 2017 Puligny-Montrachet Les Referts 1er Cru has a taut, linear, comparatively austere bouquet, direct and focused – quintessential Puligny. The palate is very well balanced with cleverly integrated oak, perfectly judged acidity and impressive weight and density toward the finish, while retaining a sense of elegance. This does need 3–4 years in bottle just…

2017 White Burgundy: Quantity, Quality and Great Charm (Sep 2018)

(for the first time, the estate will bottle its two disparate parcels in Folatières separately; this one is situated below La Truffière): Straw-yellow. Reticent scents of ripe peach and butter. Fatter than the Truffière, showing less in the way of acidity. Broad, dry and rich, with a hint of floral lift, but doesn’t quite come…