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Value Through Time: Burgundy 1932-2016 (Aug 2021)

I was blown away by the 2005 Grands-Echézeaux Grand Cru because though I have tasted it two or three times, never could I envisage that it would reach this level. It has laser-like precision on the nose with more blue fruit than I remember, so much mineralité, as if someone had just ground limestone directly…

Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: Romanée-Conti and Montrachet (Feb 2015)

Next to the super-refined, delicate 2006s, the 2005s come across as deeper and richer in personality. That is quite evident in the 2005 Échézeaux, a wonderfully lifted, precise Burgundy that is just starting to blossom. Today, the 2005 is all about nuance and detail. This is a terrific showing. Once again, in 2005 the Échézeaux…

2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Good deep red. Explosive aromas of redcurrant liqueur, tobacco, tar, minerals and chocolate, plus hints of decadent underbrush. Sweet redcurrant and mocha flavors show a slightly roasted aspect and elevated alcohol but also possess very good vinosity, with complicating soil tones adding nuance. Finishes uncompromisingly dry, with substantial tannins. I’d expect this seriously deep wine…

2007 and 2005 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2008)

Good full, bright yellow. Honey and marzipan on the rather stunted nose. Then supersweet, dense and tactile, but with the ripe pineapple and marzipan flavors currently muted by sulfur dioxide. Shows the power of the vintage but will need time to express itself.

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Medium-deep red. Sexy aromas of raspberry, boysenberry, cedar and spicy oak. Intensely flavored, supple and suave; not especially fleshy or sweet but fresh and surprisingly open today. Offers excellent palate coverage and length. Has plenty of underlying structure but has not yet closed down after the bottling.

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Rauzan-Ségla shows a little more degradation on the rim, but the nose is fresher than the 2000, offering menthol-tinged black fruit, licorice and earthy scents. The palate is fresh and vibrant with a wonderful line of acidity. This was always snapping at the heels of the 2000 and now appears to have overtaken…