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The 2009 White Burgundies (Aug 2011)

The 2009 Meursault Perrières is stunningly beautiful. It shows fabulous intensity and grace from start to finish. Suggestions of mint and white flowers give the wine a higher register that keeps the wine light on its feet despite its considerable richness. The Perrières is intensely perfumed from start to finish, with layers of crushed rocks…

Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Perrières 1984-2014 (Dec 2019)

Bright medium yellow. Superripe aromas of yellow peach, pineapple, spices and minerals, with a suggestion of floral lift. Very ripe yellow fruits dominate the middle palate, which comes across as surprisingly fresh considering the moderate acidity. But here’s a perfect example of inner-mouth tension being provided by powerful minerality. In fact, this classic Perrières is…

Domaine des Comtes Lafon Meursault Perrières 1984-2014 (Dec 2019)

Bright medium yellow. Superripe aromas of yellow peach, pineapple, spices and minerals, with a suggestion of floral lift. Very ripe yellow fruits dominate the middle palate, which comes across as surprisingly fresh considering the moderate acidity. But here’s a perfect example of inner-mouth tension being provided by powerful minerality. In fact, this classic Perrières is…

The 2009 White Burgundies (Aug 2011)

The 2009 Meursault Perrières is stunningly beautiful. It shows fabulous intensity and grace from start to finish. Suggestions of mint and white flowers give the wine a higher register that keeps the wine light on its feet despite its considerable richness. The Perrières is intensely perfumed from start to finish, with layers of crushed rocks…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Full medium ruby. Exotic aromas of cassis, roast coffee and sweet oak. Sweet, thick and oaky, with superb breadth of flavor; at once chewy and smooth. An impressively rich, ripe, oaky Mouton with palate-staining length and strong finishing oakiness. But less noble and scented than the young 2002, which may be every bit as dense.

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Mouton-Rothschild is a vintage that famously came in an eye-catching gold-embossed bottle, though I was rather ambivalent about its quality. Now just over two decades old, it has a focused bouquet of blackberry, mint and tobacco/black truffle scents, demonstrating fine intensity if not the show-stopping complexity one might expect from a First Growth…