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Five Vertical Tastings (Jul 1999)

Very saturated dark red-ruby. Youthful, supercomplex aromas of plum liqueur, currant, brown spices, leather and chocolate, plus an ineffable animal/vegetal/mineral element. Wonderful penetrating sweetness in the mouth; dense, thick, very intensely flavored and pungent. Sharply delineated. Perhaps not quite the sheer size of the ’94. Finishes extremely long and focused, with fine tannins and a…

Five Vertical Tastings (Jul 1999)

Deep red-ruby. Knockout, Bordeaux-like aromas of cherry syrup, plum, chocolate, mocha and brown spices, plus a faint vegetal complexity. Sweet, smooth and ripe, if not quite as dense as the extraordinary ’91. Excellent acidity gives the flavors lovely clarity. Finishes firmly tannic and very long. Extremely suave wine.

2001 and 2000 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2003)

(bottled in October) Bright medium ruby. Knockout liqueur-like nose combines black raspberry, blueberry, blackberry, black cherry and licorice, with just a suggestion of surmaturite. Lush, silky and seamless on the palate, with a deep flavor of dark chocolate. Offers great volume without any excess weight. Powerful but not hot. Finishes with superb length and richness….

2000 and 1999 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2002)

(bottled two weeks before my visit) Red-ruby. Aromas of pruneau, licorice and spicecake, with a suggestion of caramel. Sweet and supple; voluminous and aromatic. But less complex in the middle palate than the Gigondas. Finishes with substantial, slightly tarry tannins that seem a tad dry after the bottling.

Focus on Sauternes (Jul 1998)

Pungently botrytized aromas feature game, honey, marmalade, clove oil, charred oak and a whiff of herbs. Very concentrated and very young; the wine impressively thick texture is leavened by lively acidity and tangy botrytis tones. The honey, mint, mineral, and fresh herbal flavors harmonize beautifully. Very long, smoky-oaky aftertaste. The best of these three vintages…

2001, 2000 and 1999 Bordeaux (May 2002)

Saturated ruby-red. Ripe, expressive aromas of black cherry, blackberry and espresso. Sweet, concentrated and quite perfumed in the mouth, with notes of oaky torrefaction currently dominating the wine’s dark fruit flavors. Distinctly powerful for Valandraud, and impressively long on the finish, with a sweet, chocolatey aftertaste. A sample of the same juice tasted just after…