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Focus on Tuscany: The 2009s and 2008s (Aug 2011)

The 2008 Sassicaia is a rich, deep wine imbued with notable class in its black cherries, plums, grilled herbs, minerals and smoke. The 2008 is a decidedly buttoned-up, firm Sassicaia that is currently holding back much of its potential, unlike the 2006 and 2007, both of which were far more obvious wines. Readers who can…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2003 Lynch Bages has a precocious bouquet with bold, perhaps slightly monolithic licorice-infused black fruit, touches of camphor and pencil shavings that emerge with time. The palate is dense and powerful with weighty, slightly glossy black fruit. Not a complex Lynch-Bages, it is missing a bit of freshness and tension that urges you back…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 2003 Lynch-Bages has a rich and forward nose with licorice-infused black fruit, black plum and melted tar. This is very concentrated with sweet black fruit, cedar and mint, but it feels a little heavy in the mouth and is missing some complexity and freshness on the finish. A bit labored compared to coeval vintages?…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Good medium ruby. Expressive nose offers blackcurrant, plum, licorice, roasted herbs, smoke and minerals. Supple and refined, with lovely perfume and restrained sweetness. Finishes with substantial dusty tannins that coat the front teeth and turn a bit dry with aeration. Needs aging, but does not appear to possess the concentration or power of the best…

The Top Clarets of 2006 (May 2009)

Full red-ruby. Musky aromas of currant, graphite, tobacco leaf, menthol, herbs and smoke are sexed up by a captivating candied quality. Densely packed and chewy but suave, with good peppery, herbal lift to the very ripe dark berry and mineral flavors. Not the ripest vintage ever for this wine, but that’s not a bad thing…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Bright ruby. Lovely perfumed aromas of fresh red cherry, blackcurrant and violet. Enters full, rich and very suave, showing highly flattering flavors of chocolatey red cherry and red plum along with very good energy, and yet I found myself wanting a bit more precision and lift. There is a wonderfully sumptuous, sensual side to this…