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Bordeaux 2012: The Good, the Bad and the Ugly (May 2013)

(a blend of 75% cabernet sauvignon, 22% merlot, 2% cabernet franc and 1% petit verdot, 5 g/l total acidity; 3.73 pH, 95 IPT; 13.8% alcohol): Bright, full ruby. Aromas of fresh blackcurrant, graphite and bitter chocolate are complicated by delicately smoky minerality and lifted by an enticing floral quality. Fine-grained, generous and sweet, with plenty…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 2012 Cos d’Estournel has a perfumed bouquet with blackberry, cedar, undergrowth and black pepper aromas all well-defined and focused, with more vigour than many of its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grain tannins, good acidity, maybe a tad strict and dry on the finish, yet I admire its intensity and terroir expression. There…

2014 Bordeaux: A September Surprise (Feb 2017)

A gorgeous second wine, the 2014 La Dame de Montrose is soft, open-knit and very pretty. Bright floral notes add lift and a measure of elegance to the dark-fleshed fruit. Medium in body, with good depth and fine overall balance, the 2014 is just about as good as it gets for a second wine. I…

Bordeaux 2014: The Southwold Tasting (Mar 2018)

The 2014 La Dame de Montrose has a relatively straightforward bouquet with tobacco-tinged black fruit that need more focus and detail. The palate is medium-bodied with good density, a little chewy, a Saint Estèphe with sinew and backbone, the finish a little heavy-handed and perhaps trying too hard to impress? Tasted blind at the annual…

1996 Champagne – For The Ages (Oct 2014)

The 1996 Dom Pérignon Oenothèque has really turned a corner over the last six months or so. When it was originally introduced the 1996 was hard as nails, today it is an exquisite Champagne that captures the essential brightness and energy of the year. Lemon, slate, oyster shells and white flowers stain the palate in…

Vintage Champagne (Nov 2013)

(disgorged in 2008): Yellow-gold. Explosive aromas of ripe pear, honey, gingerbread and iodine, with intense smokiness and notes of chalky minerals and magnolia. Sappy, palate-staining orchard and pit fruit flavors are braced by exotic spice and mineral qualities, picking up notes of buttery brioche and toasted grain with air. Strikingly dense but energetic too, finishing…