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Northern Rhône: Solid ’14 Reds and Outstanding ’15 Whites (Jul 2017)

Light bright gold. Intense, mineral-accented white peach, pear liqueur, iodine and honey qualities on the nose; a suave floral topnote gains strength with aeration. Chewy, concentrated and focused on the palate, offering smoke-accented pear skin, peach pit and marzipan flavors that show excellent clarity and depth. The honey nuance comes back on the impressively persistent…

Châteauneuf du Pape: The Lively 2013s and Lush 2012s (Apr 2015)

Brilliant ruby-red. Fragrant, mineral-laced scents of ripe red fruits, olive paste and candied rose, along with notes of chalky minerals and garrigue. Taut, focused and spicy on entry, then fleshier and weightier in the mid-palate, offering juicy raspberry and bitter cherry flavors and a touch of anise. Closes gently tannic and very long, with resonating…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Good medium red. Slightly higher-toned on the nose than the village Gevrey, offering aromas of raspberry and chocolate. Then a bit more gripping on the palate, showing more mineral thrust and energy for the year. More saline and also more backward than the Gevrey, with its touch of sweetness leavened by a firm acid backbone….

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(90% merlot, the rest cabernets; 14.5% alcohol; 90 IPT) Ruby-purple with inky highlights. Enticing Pomerol aromas of violet, cocoa, coffee and sweet spices complicated by smoked meat and iron. Supple and smooth on entry, with lovely red berry and black cherry flavors joined on the back by spicy plum component. Starts smooth, but turns chalky,…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Gazin has a perfumed, quite floral bouquet with copious wild strawberry and boysenberry fruit, singed leather and undergrowth aromas coming through with time. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannin, perhaps a little rustic compared to its peers. Earthier and a little more angular towards the finish, but I quite appreciate that…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Gazin has a very concentrated, high-toned bouquet with Merlot firmly in the driving seat, a mixture of black and blue fruit. The palate is rounded on the entry with supple tannin, succulent and glossy in style with macerated black cherries and salted liquorice towards the finish. This needs another year or two in…