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Squares & Circles: Bordeaux ‘10 At Ten (Apr 2020)

The 2010 Lafite-Rothschild has more vivacious bouquet than expected with veins of blue fruit and iodine tincturing the black fruit. It is well defined if just missing the audacity of the Latour. The palate is approachable on the entry with fine grain tannins. It feels a touch more mature than the other First Growths, though…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Deep ruby-purple. Closed but extremely pure and penetrating on the nose, offering delicate aromas of crushed blackcurrant, flint and graphite lifted by a perfumed violet topnote. Very refined and clean on the palate, with concentrated cassis, violet, ink and cedar flavors that are archetypal Lafite. Finishes with the hint of astringency that I find in…

2011 and 2010 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2013)

Opaque ruby. Heady, smoke- and spice-accented aromas of dark berries, potpourri and minerals. Sappy, penetrating and pure, offering expansive black raspberry and boysenberry flavors that are lifted and sharpened by juicy acidity. Shows superb clarity and power on the finish, which is firmed by fine-grained, harmonious tannins. The balance here is remarkable.

2011 and 2010 Northern Rhone Wines (Mar 2013)

Opaque ruby. Heady, smoke- and spice-accented aromas of dark berries, potpourri and minerals. Sappy, penetrating and pure, offering expansive black raspberry and boysenberry flavors that are lifted and sharpened by juicy acidity. Shows superb clarity and power on the finish, which is firmed by fine-grained, harmonious tannins. The balance here is remarkable.

This Is Not Morey-Saint-Denis (March 2019)

The 2016 Vosne-Romanée Aux Malconsorts 1er Cru, which had recently been bottled, has a tightly wound but intense bouquet that responds to aeration. The fruit appears a little darker than the 2015 with just a touch of pressed iris coming through. The palate is well balanced with a fresh, quite grippy entry. I admire the…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

Medium red. Tangy, highly perfumed aromas of raspberry, cranberry, damson plum and cardamom. At once dense and penetrating, displaying excellent acidity and inner-mouth tension but a bit youthfully disjointed at present. This wine does not offer the early deliciousness of the Beaux Monts but it has even more nervosité and more tannic support. Finishes with…