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2016 Northern Rhône Whites: Excellent but Often Scarce (May 2018)

Vivid gold. Powerful, mineral-tinged Meyer lemon, nectarine and pear nectar scents show excellent clarity and complicating honey, fennel and smoky lees accents. Vibrant and expansive in the mouth, offering deeply concentrated orchard and pit fruit flavors along with suggestions of buttered toast and honeydew melon that build on the back half. Shows impressive energy and…

’16 vs. ’15 Northern Rhône: Heads You Win, Tails You Win (Apr 2018)

Dark purple. An exotically perfumed bouquet evokes mineral-accented black and blue fruit preserves and incense, and a sexy floral element gains strength with air. Fleshy, seamless and sweet, offering densely packed blueberry, cherry liqueur, spicecake and floral pastille flavors enlivened by a spine of juicy acidity. The floral note repeats emphatically on the impressively long,…

Champagne – The Season’s New Releases (Nov 2018)

The 2008 Brut Cuvée Sir Winston Churchill is one of the most reticent and tightly wound wines of the vintage. To be sure, all the 2008s offer tremendous brightness and punch, but most are also a bit more approachable in the early going. The 2008 Churchill is totally closed in on itself at present. Vibrant…

Champagne: 2020 New Releases (Nov 2020)

The 2004 Extra-Brut R.D. is a very pretty, understated Champagne that shows the more nuanced side that is typical of the vintage, while the signature Bollinger richness lies more in the background. That is the same impression I had last year, when I tasted the 2004 from magnum at the maison. Apricot, plum, hazelnut, chamomile,…

Cellar Favorite: Bollinger: 2022 New Releases (Mar 2022)

The 2014 La Grande Année is stunning. In fact, it is one of the best recent editions I can remember tasting. What comes through most is the wine’s sizzling energy and tension, qualities that aren’t often associated with Bollinger, where the Champagnes tend to show more breadth and volume. In 2014, readers will find a…

Vinous Table: Private Dinner at Wheeler Farms, Saint Helena, CA (Feb 2023)

Bollinger’s 2014 La Grande Année is a great way to start the evening as guests mill around Wheeler Farms. It is early evening in Napa, but there is still plenty of action in the winery, where various lots are being pressed under the watchful eye of winemaker Nigel Kinsman. There are some moments where I…