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Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1990 Ducru-Beaucaillou was matured in two-thirds new oak for 12 months. Ever a controversial vintage because of the problems in storage that tainted some of the production (not all), this bottle had a clean nose but one that felt a little one-dimensional, with simple red berry fruit and earthy notes, becoming increasingly herbal with…

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Very good medium color. Minerals, licorice, and earth notes on the nose; but two samples showed the slight musty quality that has plagued so many young Ducru bottles beginning with the ’85 vintage. Quite unevolved on the palate; lean for the vintage, but nicely delineated and understated. Firm tannins appear somewhat dry. Impossible to assess,…

Margaux Focus 2: Château Palmer (Aug 2023)

The 1971 Palmer remains one of the best wines of the vintage. There’s plenty of degraded red fruit on the nose, with freshly tilled loam, light allspice and cedar notes, and wilted rose petals emerging from time. Wonderful definition. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins, perhaps now just a little more mature and drier…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Gruaud Larose (Apr 2013)

Medium bright red with a hint of amber at the rim. Medicinal notes of menthol and pine needles camouflage underlying aromas of red cherry and dark plum, with nuance of shoe polish and leather adding complexity. Bright and juicy on entry, then tart acidity lifts the wine’s delicate dark fruit flavors in the mid-palate. This…

1971 x 50 (Feb 2021)

The 1971 Gruaud Larose has a similar nose to the bottle tasted just several weeks earlier. This ex-château bottle is ferrous, more than two previous encounters; savory with melted tar, cigar box and graphite. Good definition but the fruit concentration is not at the level expected. The palate is medium-bodied with quite masculine, obdurate tannins,…

The HANY Charity Dinner (Nov 2007)

A flight of 1970s that followed (all from magnums) was special, to say the least. The 1970 Chateau Latour was incredibly fresh in its generous expression of fruit, with a full-bodied, intense personality. I thought this bottle was very slightly corked, but I was among the distinct minority in that opinion.