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Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Rocheyron has a gorgeous bouquet of red berry fruit and rose petals, hints of freshly tilled loam coming through with time. The palate is medium-bodied, perfectly balanced, poised and harmonious, with seamlessly integrated oak, the Cabernet Franc lending freshness and a hint of bell pepper on the finish. Superb.

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Rocheyron is certainly a solid wine, but my expectations are a bit more than that for this wine from Silvio Denz and Peter Sisseck. Ripe dark fruit, chocolate and sweet spice are nicely pushed forward, but there's not much depth nor complexity.

The DBs: Bordeaux 2016 In Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Rocheyron, from Peter Sisseck’s property in Saint-Émilion, is unquestionably the best to date. The bouquet bursts from the glass with fresh blackberry and boysenberry fruit that is seamlessly integrated with the one-third new oak. The palate is framed by fine tannins and a superb line of acidity. There is plenty of crisp black…

Bordeaux’s Radiant 2015s (Apr 2016)

The 2015 Rocheyron is a huge, massively endowed St.-Émilion marked by considerable richness but even bigger tannins that clamp down on the fruit and convey an impression of austerity. This is a work in progress. For now, there is little pleasure here.

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Corton Grand Cru contains fruit from plots of replanted vines for the first time this year, and also 80% whole bunches. Bertrand de Villaine told me that the blending was done a little later than their other crus. Matured in 100% new oak, it has an attractive bouquet of brambly red fruit, blueberry…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Montlandrie is just as imposing as it was from barrel. Readers will have to be patient with the 2019, as it very clearly needs time. Swaths of tannin wrap around a core of black fruit, chocolate, leather, spice, incense and licorice. There's real depth and gravitas here, along with strong Cabernet aromatics that…