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A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Lynch-Bages is one of Jean-Michel Cazes’s triumphs. At three decades, it shows absolutely no signs of slowing down. Blackberry and cedar soar from the glass just as they did from the bottle last year, and touches of graphite develop, all beautifully defined and focused. As I’ve proclaimed before, there is such energy and…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(35% cabernet franc, 35% cabernet sauvignon and 30% merlot) Deep ruby-red. Ripe aromas of blackberry and cassis along with oak-derived clove, cinnamon and coriander. Soft and supple on entry, with flavors similar to the aromas, then increasingly austere toward the back, finishing with mounting tannins and a persistent floral quality. There’s plenty of ripe fruit…

A Janus with Soul: Figeac 1943–2016 (Dec 2021)

The 2010 Figeac has a deep hue. The nose is quite introverted at first, with dark berry fruit, incense, touches of fig and mulberry. The palate is beautifully balanced with a fine bead of acidity, gorgeous pure fruit, mulberry and dark plum, gentle considering the vintage. This 2010 has softened in the last couple of…

The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright ruby-red. Cassis, blueberry, flowers and clove on the precise, vibrant nose. Then tight and imploded on the palate, with an almost minty, peppery austerity to the black and blue fruit flavors; hardly your typical 2010! This very pure, spicy Saint-Emilion has the structure of a cabernet, and its youthfully forbidding tannins call for at…

2007 Bordeaux : Don’t Hate Me Because I’m Overpriced (Jul 2010)

Bright red-ruby. Redcurrant, cherry, iron, brown spices and licorice on the nose. Begins lush, full and generous if not overly sweet, then tightens up with air, showing its rather powerful underlying structure. This sharply delineated wine will need a good seven or eight years in bottle to reveal itself.

2000 and 1999 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2002)

Full ruby. Highly complex nose combines black fruits, gibier, truffle, road tar, licorice and leather. Very intense and spicy, but still tightly wound, with a firm acid spine keeping the flavors under wraps. Very interior wine today, notes Perrin. But one already senses the incipient complexity. Finishes with building tannins, a note of caramel and…