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Value Through Time: Burgundy 1932-2016 (Aug 2021)

Poured blind, the 1999 Chambertin Grand Cru from Rousseau delivers… and then some. It has a beguiling, transparent bouquet that actually drew me away from guessing the normally more opulent and (at times) opaque Côte de Nuits reds of this powerful vintage, offering vivid and pixelated red fruit tinged with freshly rolled tobacco and a…

2000 and 1999 Red Burgundies (Mar 2002)

Deep ruby-red. Cool, reserved, extremely pure aromas of wild berries, gunflint, coffee and minerals. Dense and penetrating, with a tight core of liqueur-like cherry and small red berries. Far less expressive today than the Clos de Beze; more streamlined and closed in on itself. But this extremely young Chambertin is a wine of great class….

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Brilliant golden yellow. Knockout nose combines peach, citrus fruits, white flowers, saffron, honey and stone complicated by very pure lemony botrytis. Extremely deep and concentrated but youthfully closed, showing a powerful floral character to the peach, passion fruit and marzipan flavors. Finishes very long and perfumed; a laser beam of acidity gives this Sauternes exceptional…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Rieussec has a lifted patisserie, almond-scented bouquet, touches of wild peach coming through with aeration. The palate is well balanced with a very unctuous entry, powerful and intense, almost heady in style with a persistent finish that coats the mouth. What a fabulous Sauternes. Tasted blind at the annual 10-Year-On tasting.

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2003)

Deep red-ruby. Very ripe but fresh aromas of redcurrant, minerals, tobacco and coffee. Sweet, supple and deep, with rich, musky flavors of dark berries, chocolate, mocha and espresso. Youthfully muscular, slowly unfolding wine, with good primary fruit character. Finishes with firm but fine tannins that will require at least five or six years of additional…

2001 and 2000 Red Burgundies (Mar 2003)

Good deep red. Complex nose melds briary red berries, gunflint, tobacco and smoke; suggestion of cherry confiture. Silky, sweet and thick on entry, then concentrated, dense and pure in the middle palate. Perhaps a bit sauvage next to the Charmes but sappy, layered and long. Sound acids and broad, fine tannins give this plenty of…