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The 2013 Red Burgundies (Jan 2015)

Bright full red. Aromas of black fruits, violet, crushed rock, licorice and dark spices suggest a muscular wine. Then densely packed, classically dry and intense, with the purple fruit, mineral, violet and mint flavors complicated by soil-driven salinity. Finishes tactile and very long but youthfully backward.

2012 Red Burgundies (Jan 2014)

(100% vendange entier): Good medium red. Deep aromas of cherry syrup, licorice and graphite. Silky-sweet and easygoing, but with a distinctly wild character to its flavors of cherry, earth, game and pepper. Finishes broad and sweet, with suave tannins and a lingering note of licorice.

Dance the Quickstep: Burgundy 2020 (Dec 2021)

The 2019 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru has a completely different bouquet compared to the 2020. Intense brambly red fruit, black plum, a little earthiness, maybe less mineralite compared to the ‘19. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins, quite fresh, more linear than expected. I wonder if this will close down for a few…

Pump Up The Volume: 2019 Burgundy – Blind (Dec 2023)

The 2019 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru has a powerful, burly nose with just a touch of VA that shaves off its potential focus. Kirsch and boysenberry are front and center, but too confit-like. The palate is medium-bodied, with quite firm tannins and gentle grip, the acidity here binding everything together nicely. There is uncommon…

Conterno Monfortino Magnum Vertical: 1970-2014 (Feb 2021)

The 2013 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is another huge, tannic wine. Crystalline and so precise, the 2013 is deceptive, as the aromatics are quite inviting, until masses of tannin hit the palate. Tar, rose petal, spice and cedar open with a bit of time in the glass, showing just enough to make the wine pleasurable today….

2012 and 2011 White Burgundies (Sep 2013)

Good pale yellow. Penetrating aromas of citrus peel, spices, metallic minerality and crushed rock. Tightly wound, gripping and deep, with outstanding concentration and clarity and a density of texture that reminded me of the 2005 here. A flavor of candied lime peel is already quite exhilarating but this wine’s youthfully imploded character calls for at…