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Vinous Table: Noble Rot Soho, London, UK (Sep 2020)

To baptize the new restaurant, one of our generous guests proffered a magnum of 1982 Grand Puy Lacoste. It is a few years since I last tasted this Pauillac but it remains a magnificent wine. Limpid and youthful, it displayed very little ageing compared to other 1982s, partly due to the larger format. The bouquet…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full, deep red. Reticent aromas of plum, currant, mint and cedar. Dry, penetrating and stylish, with very primary flavors and noteworthy vinosity. Classic claret intensity and grip without any excess weight. The flavors build impressively on the firmly tannic, youthfully tough finish. This bottle was still a few years away from full maturity and should…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1983 Yquem is one of the standouts from the decade. Winemaker Sandrine Garbay brought a bottle to our London tasting but unfortunately it was obviously corked. Fortunately, a friend opened another that chimed with my previous encounters. This underwent a long harvest thanks to the clement weather from 29 September until 19 November. It…

New Wines from the Tuscan Coast (Jul 2003)

Intense dark ruby. Dark berry fruit and exotic spice scents fill the high-toned, penetrating nose. Offers a deep core of beautifully delineated blackberry and blackcurrant flavors layered with bell pepper, dark chocolate and minerals. Smooth tannins frame the very long finish, leaving one with the impression of persistence and balance.

New Releases from Australia (Jul 2006)

Inky violet with a bright rim. Explosive and utterly captivating on the nose, offering a range of aromas that encompasses red and darker berries, flowers, cigar box, minerals and sexy oak spices. Quite broad on the palate, and packing a real punch to its flavors of cassis, boysenberry, candied plum, bitter chocolate and fruitcake. Serious,…

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2006)

Good full, deep red. Sexy aromas of mocha, tobacco and milk chocolate, with a suggestion of roasted nuts. Suave, fine-grained and sappy, with lovely vinosity in the context of this heatwave vintage. Redcurrant and milk chocolate flavors linger impressively on the finish, which shows noteworthy energy and length, with sweet tannins. With its high percentage…