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2001 and 2000 Red Burgundies (Mar 2003)

Deep, bright ruby. Knockout nose combines black fruits, minerals and sauvage animal nuances. Dense, thick and lush, with very suave black fruit and bitter chocolate flavors. Really sappy and chewy thanks to firm framing acidity. The tannins are fine but substantial and the finishing flavors mount slowly and inexorably. Not an easy style, but a…

2002 and 2001 Red Burgundies (Mar 2004)

Good red-ruby. Sappy, youthfully tight aromas of blackberry, raspberry, minerals and mint, lifted by a peppery quality. Juicy and tightly wound; much less silky and fat today than the Musigny. Notes of black pepper, minerals and mint. In an awkward stage today and very difficult to taste. From vines planted in 1985 and 1980.

2008 and 2007 Red Burgundies (Mar 2010)

Medium red. A cocktail of red fruits on the nose. Lush and sweet but without the brilliant definition or lift of the 2008. A somewhat more muscular style, with dark fruits complicated by notes of leather and flowers. Still a bit youthfully subdued.

1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)

Bright deep red. More deeply pitched aromas of maraschino cherry, musky strawberry, gunpowder and earth. Quite minerally and closed in the middle palate, with texture currently masked by strong acids. Today the tannins are rather tough, making the wine difficult to taste. But finishes with persistent tart cherry flavor. Both this and the Fuees may…

2003 and 2002 Chablis (Jul 2004)

Classic, steely aromas of wet stone, gunflint and humid earth; a very pure expression of this grand cru site. Big and broad on the palate, with mouthstaining concentration, but much more backward than the Blanchots, and not yet showing that wine’s sweetness or opulence of texture. Today, the strong acids have the upper hand. But…