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Barbaresco – Out of the Shadows: The 2016s & 2015s (Oct 2018)

The 2014 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is bright and piercing, as it so often is, and yet it also has more than enough fruit to fill out its mid-weight, energetic frame. Pine, mint, crushed rocks and sweet red plum build into the huge, piercing finish. The Ovello is another wine in this range that demands patience….

The 2001 Red Burgundies at Age 15 (Apr 2017)

Moderately saturated palish red color seemed to grow darker with aeration. Fresh perfume of red fruits, dried flowers, truffle, mushroom and underbrush. Not a large-scaled or expansive grand cru but fine-grained and ripe, showing insidious energy to its raspberry and truffley soil tones. Really lovely retention of red berry fruit here. Finishes with cherry and…

Bordeaux 2010: The Dry Wines (Aug 2011)

Straw-gold. Rich aromas of tropical fruits, candied apricot and butter. Then supple, soft and ripe in the mouth, with very broad flavors of passion fruit, grapefruit and vanilla that could use a bit more acidity and grip. This very rich, ripe, seamless wine finishes with good length.

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Le Pin is a very pretty wine, perhaps a bit more floral and savory and less opulent than it often is. Crushed raspberry, wild flowers, mint and dried herbs all lift from the glass effortlessly. Like most of its peers, the 2005 needs several hours of aeration to be at its best. It…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Good deep ruby-red. Knockout nose combines black raspberry, licorice, tobacco, iron, minerals and flowers. Densely packed, juicy and floral if a bit youthfully musclebound; lovely minerality here. Finishes tight and long, with some oak yet to be absorbed. Today I don’t find this wine’s normal exuberance but then it’s in cuve today and in a…

Juxtapose With You: Pétrus, Lafleur & Le Pin (Feb 2018)

Tasted at the Pomerol Comparative Exploration tasting in London, the 2005 Le Pin has never quite lived up to the billing when compared to other vintages from Jacques Thienpont’s iconic Pomerol estate, yet that is begrudging what is still a gorgeous wine. It remains very youthful and limpid in colour. The bouquet is much more…