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The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Le Petit Blanc, the first vintage to include Sémillon, has an intriguing, well-defined bouquet of gooseberry, Nashi pear, glimpses of apricot blossom and praline emanating from the Sémillon. The palate is medium-bodied with good weight and a satisfying sense of harmony, plus a very slight oily texture. Not overly complex, but is taut…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Le Petit Cheval Bordeaux Blanc is bright and finely cut, with pretty citrus, sage, mint and floral notes. Airy and beautifully lifted, the 2018 is a gorgeous dry white to drink now and over the next handful of years.

South Africa – A Delayed Primer (Feb 2021)

The 2019 Aristargos is a blend of 47% Chenin Blanc, 13% Sémillon, 11% Clairette Blanche, 10% Viognier, 8% Marsanne, 6% Roussanne, 3% Verdelho and 2% Grenache Blanc. A bit of everything, in other words. I am looking for a little more identifiable grape variety in this blend, which, despite everything in the mix, does not…

Finding Cool Sunshine: South Africa (Apr 2021)

The 2018 Palladius is a blend of 12 grape varieties, whole-cluster-pressed and matured in clay and concrete amphorae. Only Eben Sadie can take a gallimaufry of grape varieties and create a wine of this caliber. It has a clean, pure bouquet of wax resin, pine needles, greengage plum and light chamomile scents that gain intensity…

Focus on Champagne (Nov 1998)

Yeasty, toasty aromas of pear, apple, fresh herbs and macadamia nut. Rich, smooth, ripe and satisfying; a rather full dosage gives this biscuity, deep wine broad appeal. Not yet especially complex, but has the material to develop further in bottle. Long and ripe on the back end.

South Africa New Releases: Don’t Deny Yourself (Nov 2019)

The 2017 Palladius is matured in a mixture of concrete and clay. It gradually unfurls with brioche, praline and honeysuckle aromas, wonderfully focused and precise. The well-balanced palate delivers orange zest and tangerine on the entry. The acidity is very well judged and there is real brightness and tension toward the finish. Is it the…