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Back to Burgfest: 2017 Reds – Blind (Jan 2022)

The 2017 Nuits Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 1er Cru has a straightforward bouquet of red cherries plus a touch of balsamic, showing fine delineation and intensity. It opens and deepens nicely in the glass, though it requires time to absorb the new oak. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins and fine acidity, and quite saline…

Exploring Northern Rhône Whites (May 2020)

Pale yellow. Intense, mineral-dominated nectarine, pear nectar, chamomile and fennel qualities on the nose, along with a sexy floral topnote that expands with aeration. Seamless, concentrated and lively on the palate, offering powerful white peach, tangerine, Anjou pear and honeysuckle flavors. Focus and mineral lift are carried through an impressively persistent finish that features suggestions…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Good saturated full red. Exotic nose combines roasted raspberry, minerals and coffee; slight suggestions of old wine. Then sweet and minerally in the mouth, with nicely firm-edged fruit and good flavor delineation. Finish shows a slight dry edge and a hint of greenness. Best today in the middle palate. Drink over the next five years.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 1982 Pavie has a rustic nose with melted tar piercing the black earthy fruit, mulberry and pencil shavings emerging with time. The palate is well-balanced yet simpler than say, the 1978 Pavie opened a few weeks earlier. Clean yet a little static in style, it cannot compete with the 1982 Magdelaine poured in tandem…

Two Imaginary Boys: Pichon-Lalande (Aug 2019)

The 1986 Pichon-Lalande has long been one of the standout wines of the decade, and served blind, this suggests that it might have the 1982 in its sights. In many ways, it is the twin brother of the Cabernet-driven 1996. It bolts out of the stable doors with intense blackberry and cedar aromas – pure…

2006 and 2005 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2008)

(65% grenache, 20% mourvedre, 10% syrah and the rest the others) Deep red. Explosively perfumed nose offers a profound bouquet of red and dark berries, licorice, incense and musky underbrush. Broad, palate-staining raspberry and blackcurrant flavors are enveloped in velvety tannins, with suave anise and Asian spices adding complexity. A huge but balanced-even graceful-wine, with…