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2013 and 2012 White Burgundies (Sep 2014)

Ineffable perfume to the aromas of lemon, lime, lavender and crushed stone. Juicy, tangy and youthfully tight, with a distinctly dusty, extract-rich texture to the flavors of citrus peel, flowers, fleur de sel and minerals. A classic Corton-Charlemagne from vines harvested late (Colin has two sources, one in Aloxe and the other in Pernand; the…

Tuscany New Releases, Part 1 (Mar 2020)

A stunning wine, the 2017 Ornellaia offers a captivating interplay of richness and energy. Picking early was the key. Young vine Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc were harvested in August for the first time ever. In the glass, the 2017 offers up an enticing mélange of mocha, cedar, tobacco and licorice, with soft curves that add…

Piedmont’s Glorious 1989 and 1990 Vintages Revisited (Feb 2010)

The 1990 Barbaresco emerges from the glass with an exotic array of tar, smoke, licorice and grilled herbs. There is wonderful intensity to the fruit and plenty of structure. The tannins are still a bit young and the wine is only now beginning to enter the early part of what looks to be a long…

1997 and 1996 Red Burgundies (Mar 1999)

Brilliant ruby-red. Ineffable liqueur-like perfume combines blackberry, black raspberry, cassis, truffle and tar. Fat, sweet and dense but quite closed in the mouth; not yet showing La Tache’s typical licorice component. But a complete wine with superb structure and a very, very long and subtle aftertaste that builds slowly and saturates the olfactories.

Champagne: 2021 New Releases (Nov 2021)

The 2008 Dom Pérignon is a huge, powerful Champagne and also clearly one of the wines of the vintage. This is one of the most reticent bottles I have tasted. So much so that I am thinking about holding off opening any more bottles! The 2008 has always offered a striking interplay of fruit and…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2013 Figeac has more fruit than the Canon, with blackberry and wild strawberry aromas. It’s straightforward and maybe just missing the expressive Cabernet component. The palate is medium-bodied with a chewy entry, quite pastille-like with blackcurrant and a touch of blueberry, though it feels stolid and a bit short on the finish. Yet still…