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Grand Cru Culinary Wine Festival 2015 (Mar 2016)

A rich, explosive wine, the 2012 Échézeaux is a real overachiever. Here the flavors are expansive, dense and layered, with all of the intensity of the year very much in evidence. Discussing the relative merits of vineyards is one of the central aspects of appreciating Burgundy. This tasting shows why Échézeaux is not as highly…

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Good deep red. Sexy aroma of raspberry, orange blossom, Oriental spices, minerals, mulch and lightly vegetal herbs. Juicy, spicy and sharply delineated; tighter and more youthfully imploded than the Corton but quite pure. Finishes with firm tannins and a peppery element that gives the finish a slight tart edge in the early going.

Santa Cruz Mountains: The Compelling 2018s & 2019s (May 2022)

The 2018 Monte Bello is ridiculously young. There’s plenty of energy and drive, but writing a note at this point is rather superfluous. Readers should not plan on opening a bottle anytime soon. Early tastings suggest the 2018 is a Monte Bello built on linear, savory intensity more than volume. I very much like the…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The bottle of 1989 Léoville-Barton is probably the best I have encountered over the years; indeed, it is better than a bottle opened by Lilian Barton-Sartorius when I visited the property a few weeks earlier. It has a comely old-school claret bouquet of red fruit infused with cedar and loamy scents, and maybe some dustiness,…

Vinous Table: Private Dinner at Wheeler Farms, Saint Helena, CA (Feb 2023)

The 2010 Montrose is insanely beautiful. A vivid, eternal wine, the 2010 dazzles right out of the gate with its explosive energy. Soaring floral and mineral notes are immediately captivating on the bouquet. All that carries through to the palate, where the wine is dense and expansive. Readers lucky enough to own it should be…

California’s Central Coast: Better than Ever (Aug 2012)

The 2009 La Sangre de Jonata is very awkward at first, but gradually opens up to reveal huge fruit backed up by equally imposing, masculine tannin. If opened today the wine will require quite a bit of air. Ideally it is best left alone for several years. At this stage, the aromas and flavors are…