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The 2010 Clarets: A Modern Classic (Jul 2013)

Bright ruby-red. Cassis, blueberry, flowers and clove on the precise, vibrant nose. Then tight and imploded on the palate, with an almost minty, peppery austerity to the black and blue fruit flavors; hardly your typical 2010! This very pure, spicy Saint-Emilion has the structure of a cabernet, and its youthfully forbidding tannins call for at…

2016 Bordeaux…It’s All In The Bottle (Jan 2019)

The 2016 Cheval Blanc Blanc is a white of real depth and structural intensity. Citrus peel, almond, sage, mint and white pepper notes are highly nuanced and varietal in this 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Powerful and energetic in the glass, with terrific vibrancy, the 2016 has a lot to offer. Blocked malolactic fermentation and twenty months…

Southwold: 2016 Bordeaux Blind (Aug 2020)

The 2016 Le Petit Cheval has a primal nose of pink grapefruit, green apples and a touch of green asparagus, quite pure and focused, the Sauvignon component clearly in the driving seat. The palate is very well balanced with a supple opening and a fine bead of acidity, judiciously spiced with stem ginger and even…

Vinous Table: Osteria Francescana, Modena, Italy (Dec 2014)

The “Bollito not boiled” is one of Bottura’s classic dishes (seven different cuts of beef slowly cooked—for 36 hours—at a lower-than-usual temperature), while the “Beautiful, psychedelic…” veal creation is a far more modern Pollock-esque take on meat, but both match splendidly with Chave’s heavenly 1997 Hermitage Rouge. I’m not much for extremely rich, almost fat…

1998 and 1997 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2000)

Deep ruby-red. Highly aromatic nose of blackberry, currant, framboise, tar, minerals, leather and licorice. Sweet and wonderfully rich and deep, with layered fruit complicated by leather, licorice and spice notes. Already gives great pleasure thanks to its glyceral richness, but the Chaves agree that this wine needs ten years. Stylish and supple. Finishes with superfine…

The 2013 Red Burgundies: Fascinating and Challenging (Mar 2016)

Healthy medium red. Reticent red fruit and smoke aromas began a bit subdued but displayed building mineral lift with air. A step up in cut and precision over the basic village wine but also tighter and more tannic today. Juicy raspberry and violet flavors are accented by a hint of blood orange. In a distinctly…