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2009 Red Burgundies (Mar 2012)

Medium red. Aromas of very ripe plum, truffle and menthol. Lush and silky-sweet but with very good energy to the red fruit and spice flavors. Today I don’t find quite the clarity and thrust that a barrel sample showed a year ago, but this ripe, suave, very concentrated wine should offer substantial early pleasure and…

The Consistently Delectable 2014 Red Burgundies (Jan 2016)

(completely destemmed; aged in 25% new oak): Deep, healthy saturated red; clearer than the last few samples. Pure but subdued aromas of red cherry, spices and flowers. A step up in texture and depth over the Beaune and Volnay wines, showing black cherry and dark plum fruit accented by a positive peppery quality. There’s more…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bourgogne Le Clos du Château has a tightly wound bouquet that needs a little more fruit intensity; it’s too Zen-like at the moment. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine bead of acidity, moderate weight and a slightly attenuated finish that leaves me wanting a bit more.

2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Good dark red. Slightly high-toned aromas of red licorice, menthol and spices, showing more red than black fruits. Much more reserved on the palate than the Clos de la Bussière, conveying strong spice character and less easy sweetness. This youthfully medicinal, fairly tannic wine finishes with excellent saline persistence.

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Deep, slightly roasted aromas of blackberry, licorice and smoke. Sweet on the attack, then thick and fine-grained in the middle, with dense dark fruit flavors showing a strong licorice element and solid framing acidity. Finishes very long and ripely tannic, with a hint of warmth.

2012 Red Burgundy: Against All Odds (Jan 2014)

Gorgeous aromatic lift, precision and tension are the hallmarks of the 2012 Volnay Fremiets. Here the fruit takes on more burnished shades of color, with hints of dark red and black berries, crushed flowers and sweet spices. The Fremiets is a wine of total nuance and precision, and shows the more finessed side of the…