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Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2009 Haut-Bailly remains a glorious example from this Pessac-Léognan estate and confirms my recent encounters. Blueberries and cassis scents soon join black cherries, blood orange and iris flower notes on the nose. It skillfully translates the precocity of the growing season, though there is just a touch of alcohol that blurs the edges compared…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de La Bussière 1er Cru, which includes 55% whole bunch, has a transparent and distinctly marine-influenced, oyster-shell tinged bouquet. It is a little more floral than previous vintages – delicate, even. The palate is medium-bodied with a quite saline, lightly spiced entry. Touches of white pepper and clove develop toward the…

Dealing with the New Paradigm: Burgundy 2018 (Nov 2022)

The 2018 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru has a lot of volatility on the nose that masks the terroir. It seems to address that with aeration, albeit remaining feisty. The palate is sweet and candid with “squishy” red fruit that lacks definition, the finish blurred and in want of more freshness. Hard-going on the dense…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Chambolle-Musigny Les Cras 1er Cru is extremely well defined on the nose of intense blackberry and raspberry fruit, crushed rock and light wilted iris flower. The palate is medium-bodied with a bold structure, a Les Cras with huge dimension and a firm grip at this early stage. Wonderful salinity here, and it fans…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2018 Chambolle-Musigny Village is positively bulging with black and red fruit on the nose of dense blackberry and bilberry; a light marine influence surfaces with time. The palate is well balanced with firm, grippy tannins that feel more robust and slightly drier than the 2019 compared alongside. A little brusque on the finish at…

La Lumière Noire: 2019 Burgundy – Côte de Nuits (Dec 2020)

The 2019 Chambolle-Musigny Village, which includes 35% whole bunch, has a very composed bouquet of disarmingly pure, predominantly black fruit laced with blood orange. Very succinct. The medium-bodied palate features crunchy black fruit with traces of licorice, gaining in density toward a finish that grips gently and evolves a Morey-like structure. Just a touch of…