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2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Red-ruby. Leather, mocha and a whiff of game on the nose; less pure and expressive today than the 2006. Big and rich but not particularly fruity. Presents a somewhat awkward combination of impressive volume and leafy cabernet. Finishes with tough, somewhat rustic tannins.

2012 Bordeaux: Messages in a Bottle (Jan 2016)

The 2012 Saint-Georges Saint-Emilion is soft, supple and silky, with good overall balance. This is an especially delicate, feminine expression of Saint-Emilion. Red stone fruit, mint, spice and floral notes add pretty shades of nuance throughout.

1999 and 1998 Red Burgundies (Mar 2001)

Full deep red. Stylish nose of dark berries, black cherry, minerals, cherry and violet, lifted by tangy spices. Silky, thick and sweet, with striking creaminess and depth of flavor considering that the vines are just 15 years old. Lovely spicy complexity. Youthful finish features dusty oak tannins.

Brilliance in Napa Valley: 2016 & 2015 Cabernets (Jan 2018)

A wine of restraint and sensuality, the 2014 Harlan Estate is wonderfully transparent in feel. Time in the glass brings out a compelling interplay of beautifully layered fruit and lifted aromatics. The 2014 is one of the most understated yet energetic young vintages of Harlan Estate I can remember tasting. Readers who have not tasted…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Fully saturated inky purple. Black cherry, mocha, violet, coffee and minerals on the nose, along with a strong oakiness. Enters the mouth sweet and candied, with rich, deep flavors of dark berries and cherry, but turns increasingly austere on the back half. Finishes very long and less tannic than the Pavie Decesse and Bellevue-Mondotte (other…

The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Pavie has a distinctly earthy bouquet, well-defined with some expressive Cabernet Franc. A little savory, with dried blood developing in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with heavily-extracted tannins, tightening up on the mid-palate, good structure, grippy with a graphite-tinged, Cabernet-driven finish. This could actually benefit from more bottle age. Tasted blind at…