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Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 1990 Figeac, poured at the château with the Manoncourt family, is similar to several recent bottles. This example retains those aromas of Earl Grey and truffle, perhaps not quite as vigorous as the previous example, yet it grows in the glass. The palate is well balanced, the bedrock of Cabernet imparting quite a Left…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Pontet Canet, which predates Alfred Tesseron taking over the management of the estate, is clear in colour with moderate bricking on the rim. The nose is lacking some vigour, rustic and feral, light earthy and slightly under-ripe. The palate is medium-bodied with stalky black fruit, rather angular and this feels hollow towards the…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full red-ruby. Aromas of redcurrant, tobacco, spices and earth, with a slight roasted aspect. Sweet, fat and warm with alcohol; loaded with fruit but could use a bit more definition. Finishes with some free-floating acidity.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1988 Haut Bailly, which Véronique Sanders told me was the first year that there was a green harvest, was picked from 27 September until 21 October. Apparently they achieved rich tannins that were unprecedented. At thirty years old it has a pretty, minty, slightly rustic bouquet that has held up well. There is certainly…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Mouton-Rothschild (Aug 2011)

(85% cabernet sauvignon, 7% cabernet franc, 6% merlot and 2% petit verdot): Bright garnet-tinged red. Aromas of red berries, flowers and dried herbs display a slightly herbal, almost green bell pepper nuance; this doesn’t smell completely ripe to me. Enters the mouth sweet, round and fleshy, with redcurrant, red cherry and citrus flavors, then turns…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Giscours (Jan 2012)

Garnet-tinged ruby. Leafy underbrush scents complicate red cherry, red berry and tobacco on the captivating nose. Very sweet on entry, then seamless and rich in the middle palate, with a restrained sweetness and noteworthy precision to the flavors of red cherry, tobacco, leather, caramel and coffee. This very well-balanced wine finishes with still-chewy tannins and…