Archives: Product Reviews

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New Releases from Spain (Sep 2013)

(80% tempranillo, with garnacha, mazuelo and graciano; aged in large oak vats for 16 months, followed by another 36 months in small oak barrels and then another 3 years in bottle before release): Deep ruby. Heady, mineral-tinged red fruit and rose scents are complemented by star anise, vanilla and woodsmoke. Supple, seamless and concentrated, offering…

Purple Reign: La Conseillante 1966-2015 (May 2018)

The 1993 La Conseillante is a wine that I have tasted twice. The last note for the Pomerol book attests to a Pomerol now rather long in the tooth, a smoke and truffle–tinged nose that is missing vigour. The palate feels rather austere with that tobacco theme continuing on its obstreperous austere finish. Bottles should…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Twos (Sep 2022)

The 1982 Gloria, which would have been vinified in large wood tanks and a few epoxy-lined steel tanks, is a vintage that I have not tasted for many years. It is showing some bricking on the rim. The nose is fully mature with red fruit, mushroom, sous-bois and fennel, open and slightly rustic, yet charming….

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Dark red. Plum, mocha, meat and leather; grew distinctly gamier and more rustic as it opened in the glass. Sweet, fat and broad, with lovely texture and palate presence. Finishes with fine tannins and persistent sweet fruit.

1998 and 1997 White Burgundies (Sep 1999)

Ripe, complex aromas of white flowers and lemon cream. Full and bright but tightly structured and not yet harmonious. Has the reserve of a grand cru. Very good acidity and grip. A vin de garde in the context of the vintage.

2011 and 2010 Southern Rhone Wines (Jan 2013)

Bright ruby. Sexy aromas of red fruit preserves, potpourri and herbs, with a spicy topnote. Juicy and precise, offering sweet raspberry and cherry flavors and a touch of smoky minerality. Showing impressive finesse and a light touch for the vintage. Very elegant, with a strikingly long, floral-dominated finish and gentle tannins.