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2018 Dining & Drinking Memories (Jan 2019)

I’ve been following this wine since I first tasted it from barrel in the summer of 1990, and it has always been an amazing wine and one of the best examples of this remarkable vintage. This particular bottle, which I helped to drink alongside a superb, dry-aged prime porterhouse at one of the New York…

Le Miracle de Haut-Brion (Dec 2014)

A modern-day version of the epic 1959, the 1989 Haut-Brion is all about harmony. Fine, silky tannins and expressive aromatics are two of the signatures. Tobacco, cedar and anise add layers of nuance to the dark, mineral-inflected fruit. The 1989 has long been one of my favorite Haut-Brions. It is once again magnificent in this…

Vinous Table: Marea, New York, NY (Jul 2022)

The 1989 Haut-Brion is very, very good. All the telltale Haut-Brion signatures of dark fruit, minerals, herbs, gravel and spice are present, but this bottle is lacking the textural opulence and depth of the best examples. Readers who have had the 1989 know what an epic wine it usually is.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1989 Haut-Brion remains one of the outstanding achievements of the decade, and it consistently flirts with perfection. I was fortunate to taste the wine three times over the space of six months, though this tasting note comes from a bottle poured at the château by Jean-Philippe Delmas – the first time I had ever…

1998, 1997 and 1996 Bordeaux (May 1999)

Full ruby-red. Lower-toned aromas of boysenberry, mulberry, plum, tobacco, star anise and roasted oak. Vinous and rather tough in the mouth, with strong acid spine. This was harder to view than most ’96s on my recent tour. Finishes with rather tough tannins. In an awkward stage following the bottling last July.