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Jekyll and Hyde: 2017 Brunello di Montalcino and 2016 Riservas (Dec 2021)

An exotic mix of sweet smoke and cloves gives way to dusty black cherries and a twang of sour citrus as the 2017 Brunello di Montalcino unfolds in the glass. Further time reveals hints of animal musk and flowery undergrowth. This enters the palate with pure elegance, delicate and silky in feel, yet also delivering…

Brunello di Montalcino: The 2012 Brunellos & 2011 Riservas (Mar 2017)

Vivid ruby-violet; this wine’s color is much darker than San Filippo’s 2012 Brunello classico and a bit of a throwback to the Brunello hues that were routine a decade ago. Then also very dark on the nose and palate, with blueberry, blackcurrant and flnty notes dominating. With prolonged aeration (I retasted this twelve hours after…

Chianti Classico and Beyond – 2018 & 2019 (Sep 2021)

The 2016 Sammarco is a dense, flamboyant wine. Inky red fruit, spice, cedar, tobacco, menthol and licorice are some of the notes that build in a statuesque Sammarco that dazzles from start to finish. A wine of stunning textural richness and intensity, Sammarco is translucent, sculpted and full of character. All the elements are so…

2014 and 2013 Northern Rhône: Great Wines If You Can Find Them (Mar 2016)

(aged for two years in one-third new and two-thirds used demi-muids): Bright violet. Exotic floral- and spice-accented aromas of fresh dark berries and incense on the intensely perfumed nose. Juicy, penetrating and spicy on the palate, with strong thrust to the sweet blackberry and cherry-vanilla flavors. A bright mineral quality adds focus and cut to…

Focus on Barbaresco – A Close Look at 2019 & 2020 (Oct 2022)

The 2019 Barbaresco Ronchi is a deep, potent wine. In this tasting, the Ronchi impresses with its stature, aromatic presence and textural intensity. Dark red cherry, red plum, cinnamon, rose petal and dried flowers emerge with a bit of coaxing, but the Ronchi is one of the least giving wines in the range today. I…

Argentina: Making It Work with Resilience and Stylistic Ingenuity (Nov 2022)

The 2019 Malbec Finca Piedra Infinita from the Uco Valley was aged in concrete. A vivid purple in the glass. The compact nose presents hints of fresh plum, blackberry and pinches of herbs such as thyme and bay leaf before floral violet and lavender aromas begin to develop. On the palate, it’s similarly compact with…