Archives: Product Reviews

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2006 and 2005 Red Burgundies (Mar 2008)

Good deep red. Explosive aromas of redcurrant liqueur, tobacco, tar, minerals and chocolate, plus hints of decadent underbrush. Sweet redcurrant and mocha flavors show a slightly roasted aspect and elevated alcohol but also possess very good vinosity, with complicating soil tones adding nuance. Finishes uncompromisingly dry, with substantial tannins. I’d expect this seriously deep wine…

2007 and 2005 Sauternes and Barsacs (Jul 2008)

Good full, bright yellow. Honey and marzipan on the rather stunted nose. Then supersweet, dense and tactile, but with the ripe pineapple and marzipan flavors currently muted by sulfur dioxide. Shows the power of the vintage but will need time to express itself.

The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Medium-deep red. Sexy aromas of raspberry, boysenberry, cedar and spicy oak. Intensely flavored, supple and suave; not especially fleshy or sweet but fresh and surprisingly open today. Offers excellent palate coverage and length. Has plenty of underlying structure but has not yet closed down after the bottling.

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 Rauzan-Ségla shows a little more degradation on the rim, but the nose is fresher than the 2000, offering menthol-tinged black fruit, licorice and earthy scents. The palate is fresh and vibrant with a wonderful line of acidity. This was always snapping at the heels of the 2000 and now appears to have overtaken…

Brunello di Montalcino: Sleek ’13s, Surprising ’12 Riservas (Apr 2018)

Bright red. Spicy dark berries, flint and brown spices on the aromatic nose. Supple and broad but youthfully reticent; intriguing suggestions of spice and orange peel complement the flinty red cherry and dark berry flavors. Finishes with substantial but polished tannins. This really needs some time to expand in the bottle.

Brunello di Montalcino: Sleek ’13s, Surprising ’12 Riservas (Apr 2018)

Bright red. Spicy dark berries, flint and brown spices on the aromatic nose. Supple and broad but youthfully reticent; intriguing suggestions of spice and orange peel complement the flinty red cherry and dark berry flavors. Finishes with substantial but polished tannins. This really needs some time to expand in the bottle.