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The Future’s Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Nov 2019)

The 2018 Lacoste-Borie was picked September 21 to October 5 at 44hl/ha. It has a pleasant bouquet of blackberry, iodine and violet aromas, perhaps needing just a little more delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with a graphite-tinged entry. Supple and quite approachable, this is well-balanced with good acidity and some oakiness on the finish, though…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Ségla is every bit as impressive as it was from barrel. Readers will find a second wine that shows all stature of the Grand Vin, but with the volume turned out just a bit. Rich, pliant and wonderfully inviting, the 2018 Ségla has it all. Dark cherry, plum, mocha, spice and licorice all…

Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

The 2018 Segla, which was omitted from my in-bottle report, has a rich and opulent nose with sloes, black cherries and violet petal aromas; it’s fruit forward and sensual. The palate is medium-bodied with saturated tannins and is slightly granular in texture with underlying salinity, black plum and just a hint of allspice. It is…

Moving On: Lafon-Rochet 1955-2017 (Jun 2023)

The 1996 Lafon-Rochet shows slight bricking on the rim. It’s a little rustic with black fruit, sandalwood, and sage on the nose, but this is certainly showing good vigor after 25 years. The palate is balanced with tannins, a little “sauvage” now, mushroom and mint, fennel and black tea, a slight dryness creeping in at…

Bordeaux’s Radiant 2015s (Apr 2016)

The 2015 Clos Floridene is a very pretty, nuanced white. Almonds, dried flowers, mint and apricot notes are all pushed forward in this succulent, inviting wine from Denis and Florence Dubourdieu. The creamy, expressive finish only adds to the wine’s considerable appeal. I very much admire the interplay of richness and tension.

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The 1999 Cos d’Estournel has a well-defined bouquet that takes a few swirls of the glass to get going. It is not complex or vigorous, yet nicely detailed. Melted tar and cigar humidor infuse the black fruit, becoming earthier with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine line of acidity. This feels quite masculine…