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2017 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: A Day’s Work (Jul 2020)

The 2017 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru is dense, ample and also ethereal, as only it can be. Once again, Romanée-Conti elicits thoughts of art forms like cubist paintings or jazz, where themes are implied but never expressly stated. Above all else Romanée-Conti is a Burgundy that engages all the senses. You want answers, but all you…

Complex, Not Complicated: 2017 DRC in Bottle (Feb 2020)

The 2017 Romanée-Conti Grand Cru was picked on September 8 at 35hl/ha and bottled April 25–26 . It has a quintessential Romanée-Conti bouquet of pure, seductive red fruit (morello cherry, cranberry, raspberry), extremely well defined and focused, plus subtle sea spray/seaweed aromas; with continued aeration, I noticed just a faint touch of curry leaf in…

Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet: 1981-2012 (Sep 2019)

Bright yellow. Fascinating aromas of pineapple, candied lemon zest and wet stone accented by spearmint, eucalyptus, menthol and fresh herbs. Then obviously leaner than the 2012 but with surprising intensity and building creaminess of texture. Less exotic in the mid-palate than on the nose, with lemon zest, crushed stone and white flowers dominating. This is…

Domaine Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet: 1981-2012 (Sep 2019)

Bright yellow. Fascinating aromas of pineapple, candied lemon zest and wet stone accented by spearmint, eucalyptus, menthol and fresh herbs. Then obviously leaner than the 2012 but with surprising intensity and building creaminess of texture. Less exotic in the mid-palate than on the nose, with lemon zest, crushed stone and white flowers dominating. This is…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

(a 55/45 blend of cabernet franc and merlot; cropped at 27 hectoliters per hectare; ph 3.56; 14.5% alcohol; 100% new oak) Bright, saturated ruby-red. Very cabernet franc- and limestone-driven on the nose, offering enticing scents of red berries, cocoa, spicy minerals and violet. Impressively intense flavors of red and dark berries are complicated by bitter…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Ausone has a sumptuous bouquet with pure blackberry, raspberry, rose petal and orange blossom aromas. The wine is beautifully defined blossoms with aeration. It becomes very liquorice and menthol-like after 10 minutes’ aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannin. It is not a powerful 2009 and it feels sleek and quite tensile….