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Omne Trium Perfectum: Bordeaux 2019s in Bottle (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Cos d'Estournel was picked from September 23 to October 7 at 43hL/ha, matured in a judicious 55% new oak, and bottled in July 2021 by gravity. It is more backward on the nose, and there’s nothing wrong with that for a Grand Vin. Biding its time, it opens to deliver lovely, very pure…

Bordeaux 2019: The Southwold Tasting (Feb 2023)

The 2019 Cos d’Estournel is tasted from two bottles, the first not representative. The second has a perfumed bouquet with blackberry and raspberry fruit, sous-bois, and light spicy scents. The palate is medium-bodied with finely sculpted tannins, fresh and tensile, gradually building with a mineral-rich and very persistent finish. Vibrant and energetic, this Cos d’Estournel…

2019 Bordeaux from Bottle: The Two Towers (Feb 2022)

The 2019 Cos d'Estournel is a deep, powerful wine. That has been true on both times I have tasted it recently. Readers will have to be patient. Those who can afford it will be rewarded with a towering, statuesque Saint-Estèphe. With a bit of air the fruit starts to emerge, but this is a very…

2002 and 2001 Red Burgundies (Mar 2004)

(the yield here was just 24 hectoliters per hectare, according to Rouget) Good full red. Pure, tangy, cool aromas of raspberry, licorice and spice. Sweet, pure and lively in the mouth; shows more flesh and much better extraction than the foregoing samples. Finishes with sweet tannins and very good length.

Bordeaux In Excelsis (Jun 2018)

The 1928 Château Margaux is one of the oldest vintages that I have encountered and has a formidable reputation. This did not disappoint. Deep in hue like many 1928s at this stage, it boasts a fabulous graphite-tinged bouquet that like the 1982 came across quite Pauillac in style, implying that there might have been a…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Montrose is spectacular. Bright, perfumed and vertically explosive, the 2005 possesses remarkable energy right out of the gate. In 2005, Montrose doesn’t quite have the heft that it can, but that actually works to its advantage. Readers will find a wine that marries elegance with power so well. Gravel, dried herb, lavender and…