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Thrice Is Nice: Bordeaux 2020 in Bottle (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Haut-Bailly showed extremely well when I tasted it at my home during lockdown. Now in bottle since spring 2022, it upholds a wonderful bouquet with multi-layered black fruit laced with briary, flint, blood orange and light peony scents. That orange element becomes a touch more pronounced with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with…

Vingt-Vingt Vins: Bordeaux 2020 (May 2021)

The 2020 Haut-Bailly was picked September 9–25 in what the estate has called the "year of reinvention." Having left my sample to open for 30 minutes and then assessed it over the following three hours, I found that it has a mercurial nose of gorgeous blackberry, briar, white pepper, incense and hints of blood orange….

Bordeaux 2020: Saving the Best for Last (Feb 2023)

The 2020 Haut-Bailly has developed into an elegant, richly-textured wine with all its elements in balance. Classy and polished to the core, the 2020 is a Haut-Bailly that favors finesse over power. It’s a wine of extreme precision and persistence more than anything else. Red-toned fruit, dried flowers, spice and blood orange are some of…

2020 Bordeaux En Primeur: Almost Back to Normal (Jun 2021)

Deep, rich and explosive, the 2020 Haut-Bailly is magnificent from the very first taste. Dark fruit, chocolate, licorice and spice give the 2020 a level of unctuousness that is absolutely thrilling. Readers should be patient, as the 2020 is going to need time to come around. Yields are down 25% from 2019, and that richness…

Through the Other Side: Burgundy 2016 in Bottle (Oct 2019)

The 2016 Clos des Lambrays Grand Cru is extremely well defined on the nose with blacker fruit than its peers, wet limestone scents percolating through the red berry fruit, somehow sedate and effortless. The palate is medium-bodied with sappy red fruit, nigh perfect acidity, a touch of fleshiness towards the finish. It is not the…

Red Burgundy ’16 & ’15: Superb Vintages, Different Styles (Jan 2018)

(38 hectoliters per hectare produced; vinified with 85% whole clusters, down from a normal 100%; aging in 50% new oak, vs. 33% for the premier cru and village wine): Healthy dark red. Captivating perfume of red berries, spices and flowers lifted by a sexy herbal element from the stems. Silky, dense and concentrated, showing terrific…