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Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Petit Cheval is a rich, heady wine. The natural intensity of the year comes through loud and clear in the wine's super-ripe profile and voluptuous feel. Black cherry, tobacco, new leather, licorice and menthol saturate the palate. When I tasted it from barrel I thought the Petit Cheval would drink well upon release,…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Le Petit Cheval has a pretty bouquet that demands some coaxing from the glass (indeed, I left the bottle a couple of hours to fully open). Blackberry and bilberry fruit, tobacco and light autumn leaf aromas gently unfold but never slip into fifth gear. The palate is medium-bodied with a leafy, slightly herbaceous…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Petit Cheval is a rich, heady wine. The natural intensity of the year comes through loud and clear in the wine's super-ripe profile and voluptuous feel. Black cherry, tobacco, new leather, licorice and menthol saturate the palate. When I tasted it from barrel I thought the Petit Cheval would drink well upon release,…

1997, 1996 and 1995 Bordeaux (May 1998)

Darker red, but not especially saturated. Deeper, riper aromas of plum and framboise, with smoky oak and mint notes adding complexity; showed a note of surmaturite that reminded me of a Bonneau Chateauneuf du Pape. Fairly strong on the attack, then the richest and sweetest of these three vintages by a wide margin. Concentrated and…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Ruby-purple. Vibrant blackcurrant, blackberry and smoke aromas show noteworthy depth and purity. Big and ripe on the palate, but with lovely balance to its black fruit and smoke flavors. The very long, pure finish features a lingering mineral streak and very fine tannins. This exceptional vintage of Pape Clement packs an amazing amount of concentration…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Pape-Clément is one of the few wines to comes across as a little dumb on the nose. It demands coaxing but eventually reveals lovely blackberry, raspberry, leather and sage aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, and fine bead of acidity. Grippy and quite masculine with a broad-shouldered, dense finish that suggests…