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Looking The Part: Pichon-Baron 1953 – 2015 (Jan 2019)

The 2008 Pichon-Baron has a much better bouquet than the 2007 (as you would expect), replete with blackberry, blueberry, minerals and graphite that are all very well defined and focused. The oak here is superbly integrated. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-grained tannin, and full of tension and energy. It builds nicely in the mouth,…

The 2008 Clarets (Jul 2011)

Bright ruby-red. Black cherry, leather and strong graphite minerality on the nose. Silky, sweet and suave, with dark fruit flavors lifted by a violet element and given grip and definition by a strong mineral spine. Wonderfully deep, ripe Pauillac with strong early sexy appeal. Finishes very bright and long, with serious but sweet tannins. Deceptively…

Passing the Baton: Lynch-Bages 1945-2018 (Jul 2023)

The 1986 Lynch-Bages is a vintage that I have not encountered for some time. Deep in hue, it has an attractive nose with blackberry, melted asphalt, mint and a hint of gravel in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with fine tannins considering the vintage. It’s powerful but has the elegance that Jean-Michel Cazes made…

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2000 Talbot shows a bit of bricking on the rim. It’s somewhat rustic on the nose, displaying licorice-tinged black fruit, marmalade and furniture polish and just a little brettanomyces. A light underlying balsamic note filters through with time. The palate is medium-bodied, quite savory and powdery in texture, with dry-ish, grainy tannins and a…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Bright ruby-red. Reticent aromas of black fruits, violet, bitter chocolate and licorice, plus a whiff of smoky oak. Dense, lush and sweet, but lively acids lift the flavors and contribute to the perfumed impression in the mouth. Finishes firmly tannic and fresh but sweet, with dusty tannins and lingering notes of leather and game. A…

2005 Bordeaux: Here and Now (Apr 2021)

The 2005 Pontet-Canet is a heady, exotic wine. Inky dark fruit, mocha, chocolate, licorice, spice and tobacco are front and center. Readers will find an unabashedly opulent, full-throttle 2005 with quite a bit more oak influence and overall extraction than is the norm these days. Even so, the 2005 is a young, young wine with…