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The Annual Red Bordeaux Report (May 2004)

Fresh, bright red-ruby color. Roasted plum, currant, game, leather and sexy oak spices on the nose. Thick and broad on entry, then fat and rich in the middle, with a nicely restrained sweetness. Wonderfully layered, deep wine, showing more power than the Canon La Gaffeliere in this vintage.

Looking Backward/Looking Forward: 2000 vs 2001 Bordeaux (Sep 2021)

The 2001 La Mondotte, which I had tasted twice before, has a pleasant bouquet of raspberry coulis and crushed strawberry scents, hints of peppermint and orange blossom emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with simple red berry fruit, maraschino cherries and touches of blueberry, fine acidity and dark chocolate and espresso notes toward the…

Champagne: New Releases and Collectibles (May 2014)

Pear, spices, yellow stone fruits and smoke meld together in the Brut Grand Vintage. Rich and ample on the palate, the 2004 impresses for its balance, richness and volume. This bottle is quite a bit fresher and more vibrant than the bottle I reviewed last year. Early signs of development are just now starting to…

Vintage Champagne (Nov 2013)

(38% chardonnay, 33% pinot noir and 29% pinot meunier; aged on its lees for seven years, with a relatively low 5 g/l dosage; LAHFU): Bright yellow. Heady, complex bouquet of fresh nectarine, pear and melon, with notes of smoky lees and white flowers adding complexity. Bright, mineral-driven orchard and pit fruit flavors show impressive depth…

Where the Heart Is: Ducru-Beaucaillou 1934-2018 (Jul 2022)

The 1998 Ducru-Beaucaillou, matured in two-thirds new oak, is so much better than the succeeding vintage, one that I have admired since first tasting it just after bottling. There is much more complexity and personality on the nose with vivacious red berry fruit, the rose petals and kirsch that I noticed before, maybe here with…

2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Red-ruby. Perfumed, sappy aromas of redcurrant, flowers and minerals. Intensely flavored, high-pitched and penetrating, with a deep core of spice contributing to the impression of vinosity. Shows a youthful austerity today. Finishes very long and brisk, with substantial, dusty tannins. I always think of Michael Broadbent descriptor flavory (actually, flavoury) when I taste a dry,…