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2000, 1999 and 1998 Bordeaux (May 2001)

Red-ruby. Perfumed, sappy aromas of redcurrant, flowers and minerals. Intensely flavored, high-pitched and penetrating, with a deep core of spice contributing to the impression of vinosity. Shows a youthful austerity today. Finishes very long and brisk, with substantial, dusty tannins. I always think of Michael Broadbent descriptor flavory (actually, flavoury) when I taste a dry,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Eights (May 2018)

The 1998 Ducru Beaucaillou is a blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot that was picked between 24 September and 7 October. It has a lucid ruby hue with very little ageing on the rim. The bouquet is ripe, almost heady in style, glossy perhaps with kirsch, maraschino cherries, vanilla and crushed rose petals….

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Mouton-Rothschild (Aug 2011)

Bright red with an amber rim. Captivating nose of dark plum, blackcurrant, oak, coffee, cocoa and flowers. Juicy, sweet and suave on entry, then brightly focused in its red fruit and black flavors complicated by cedar and citrus. Finishes with flinty, saline nuances and very suave tannins. This outstanding wine is perfectly balanced and light…

1982 Bordeaux, 20 Years On (Jul 2002)

Full ruby-red. Wonderfully perfumed nose combines redcurrant, plum, mocha, minerals and rose petal. Plush, fat and rich, with great sweetness and class. This has utterly compelling mouthfilling richness. Finishes smooth and endless, with great breadth. This wine showed fabulous potential from barrel, but this is the first truly outstanding bottle I’ve had. Drink 2005 through…

New Releases from the Tuscan Coast (Jan 2021)

The 2018 Ornellaia is an introvert at this stage. Medium in body, with terrific persistence and impeccable balance, the 2018 is not in any mood to show all its cards today. Hints of red berry fruit, mocha, spice, licorice and dried flowers emerge with a bit of coaxing. I won’t be surprised to see it…

2011 Bordeaux from the Bottle (Jul 2014)

Deep ruby. Complex, soil-driven aromas of redcurrant, dark cherry and raspberry are complicated by exotic notes of Oriental spices and soy sauce. Rich, tactile and sweet, offering intense, elegant dark fruit and spice flavors lifted by a saline nuance. Finishes with sweet tannins and lingering saline and smoky notes. This is deeper and fleshier than…