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The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Haut-Brion has a really lovely, warm, autumnal nose with red fruit, chestnut, autumn leaves and Earl Grey scents. Very complex. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins, a crisp line of acidity, maybe just a little austere on the finish, but there is fine focus with a delicately spiced, slightly medicinal finish….

2008 and 2007 Red Burgundies (Mar 2010)

(bottled in March of ’09) Good medium red. Cherry, redcurrant and smoky minerality on the nose. More primary and more structured than the village wine, and a step up in concentration. This has lovely freshness of dark fruit flavor and penetrating but harmonious acidity. Finishes long, with nicely buffered tannins.

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

Inky purple. Fresh, clean, rather delicate aromas of blackcurrant, violet, damp moss, leather and minerals are sweetened by a red cherry note. Smooth and soft, with very ripe strawberry syrup and blackberry flavors. Offers a fleshy quality that’s supported by the stoniness typical of Chevalier. Nicely balanced, minerally and long, leaving behind a note of…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Domaine de Chevalier has a vivacious, almost exotic bouquet with lavish black fruit, mint, oregano and cedar that all gain intensity with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a fine bead of acidity, ripe black fruit laced with white pepper and even a faint touch of Szechuan pepper. This displays exquisite…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Bright, medium ruby-red. Nuanced, expressive nose combines dark cherry, redcurrant, mocha, graphite, cedar and hot bricks. Plush on entry, then sweet but firm in the middle, with a solid mineral spine giving shape to the fine-grained dark berry and cedar flavors. This wonderfully glossy wine boasts excellent structure on the subtly long back end, with…

The Most and Least Important of Things: Petrus 1897–2011 (Jul 2020)

The 1989 Petrus is consistent with previous bottles in the sense that it represents the apotheosis of not only the vineyard, but of Pomerol itself. It still provides that almost surreal cornucopia of aromas, red fruit melted with tar, tobacco, hints of camphor and ash, all delivered with astonishing precision. The palate is perfectly balanced,…