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The Comedown: Bordeaux 2011 Ten-Years-On (Apr 2022)

The 2011 Domaine de Chevalier feels a little feral on the nose, perhaps with just a touch of brett? Still, attractive in its own way. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannins, quite fleshy and rounded, smooth in texture though it is just missing a little complexity and appellation character on the finish. Not bad,…

Cellar Journal: Bordeaux 1920-2015 (Dec 2019)

The 2015 Batailley put in a querulous showing at the blind Southwold tasting, so I asked for another bottle at the property. It has a well-defined bouquet, although I am still seeking more cohesion and terroir expression. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, fine acidity and plenty of cedar-infused black fruit. There remains some…

Finally: Bordeaux 2015 In Bottle (Jul 2019)

The 2015 Léoville Barton has one of the richest bouquets in the appellation, boasting almost ostentatious blackberry, raspberry and bilberry scents on the nose, suffused with crushed limestone and light graphite aromas. The medium-bodied palate is taut and crisp, delivering a fine bead of acidity and freshness from beginning to end. Mainly black fruit here,…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 2013 Clinet has a dense nose with light black fruit and incense, missing some delineation and not as complex as recent vintages, as you might expect. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe tannins and fine acidity. Not a complex Clinet, yet it’s balanced with no greenness, sporting decent weight with a peppery finish. What…

Bordeaux 2013: Definitely Not the Vintage of the Century (May 2014)

Dark ruby. Initially very leafy, almost medicinal nose became fruitier with air. Then pungently aromatic on the palate, with strong notes of underbrush and pine cone dominating the delicate small dark berry flavors. With its rather extreme tannins, this seems over-extracted to me and I wonder if it will ever come into balance. But it…