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2017 Bordeaux: The Heart of the Matter (May 2018)

The 2017 Gruaud Larose is pliant, deep and quite expressive, while staying light on its feet. In 2017, Gruaud is a wine of precision and nuance rather than volume. There is lovely persistence and nuance in the glass. Even so, I can’t help thinking there is quite a bit of unrealized potential here. All of…

Vintage Seeks Home: Bordeaux 2017 In Bottle (Jan 2020)

The 2017 Gruaud Larose, which was bottled June 2019, is a little smudged on the nose compared to some of its peers, and I would say, compared to the nascent 2018. Attractive brambly red fruit mixed with cigar humidor and attic aromas that just require more precision and intensity. The palate is medium-bodied with supple…

Unrivalled/ Unequalled: Yquem 1921–2019 (Apr 2022)

The 1985 Yquem suffered by there being just a single day of rain between 15 September and 1 November, precluding botrytis formation. Nevertheless, picking started on 5 October and unexpectedly some botrytis did appear. The nose is clean but simple for this estate, dried honey and hazelnut, almond and a subtle petrol-like aroma. The palate…

Vertical Tasting of Chateau Giscours (Jan 2012)

60% cabernet sauvignon and 40% merlot; 29.3 g/l dry extract; 13.2% alcohol): Dark ruby with purple highlights. Lively aromas and flavors of cassis, violet, cedar and minerals. Then fresh, suave and balanced, offering good balance but only average intensity. Finishes suave and clean, with persistent floral and licorice notes. A rather stylish wine and yet…

2006, 2005 and 2004 Bordeaux (May 2007)

Saturated medium ruby. Blackberry, bitter chocolate and nutty oak on the nose; seems rather heavily extracted. Fat, chewy and sweet, with a slightly chunky medicinal black cherry flavor. Finishes with big, broad, granular tannins. A big boy for the vintage, but in an extractive style. (The sample I tasted in the spring of 2005 seemed…

Focus on Spain (Sep 2014)

(85% tempranillo, 10% cabernet sauvignon and 5% merlot; aged for 17 months in a combination of new and used French oak): Inky ruby. Vibrant, spice-accented aromas of blackberry and cherry-cola, with a suave floral overtone. Sweet and focused on the palate, offering an array of dark fruit flavors complicated by peppery spices and smoky minerality….