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2017 Barolo, Part 2: The Late Releases (Oct 2021)

The 2015 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is magical. This is the first vintage that includes fruit from Arione, so the 2015 is 80% Francia and 20% Arione. That marks a return to Monfortino as a multi-vineyard wine, which it mostly was until 1978, when the first Monfortino from Francia was made. The combination of sites works…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Chevalier-Montrachet Grand Cru has an intense bouquet of lemon thyme, crushed limestone, and traces of orange pith and citrus peel that gain intensity with aeration. The palate is underpinned with a fine, almost razor-sharp bead of acidity. There is a wonderful crescendo of flavor here, leading to a multifaceted, lemongrass-tinged finish that lingers…

2018 Burgundy: Confounded Expectations (Jan 2020)

The 2018 Bâtard-Montrachet Grand Cru has a touch more pungency compared to the Bienvenue, but perhaps not quite the same alluring charm, at least at this primordial stage. The palate is where it’s at: supremely well balanced, exuding a sense of coiled-up energy countered by a dense, persistent finish. A bit of a beast, but…

New Releases from Australia, Part 1 (Jul 2007)

Dark red. Vaguely roasted aromas of ripe blackberry, cherry and plum, plus hints of grilled meat and tobacco. Liqueur-like cherry and dark berry flavors betray a touch of warmth, with supple tannins building with air. This distinctly warm, toasty, rich wine should be drunk on the young side before it loses its freshness.

New Releases from Australia (Jul 2006)

Ruby-red. Cherry, blackcurrant, red berries and spicy oak on the nose, with hints of cracked pepper and fresh herbs. Medium-bodied, fresh and silky, the red and dark berry fruit flavors joined by cured meat, tobacco and mocha. Finishes on a pronounced note of pomegranate, with fine-grained tannins offering support. While this is drinking well already,…

2010 and 2009 White Burgundies (Sep 2011)

Pale, bright yellow. Very high-pitched aromas of lavender and iodine. Extremely rich and powerful but with a shockingly light touch and outstanding precision to its flavors of citrus fruits, mirabelle, minerals and spices. Just a hint of surmaturite here, but with the lemony acidity and supporting structure for a long evolution in bottle. Finishes with…