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New Vintage Champagne Releases (Nov 2010)

Light gold. High-pitched aromas of lemon pith, quince and green apple, with complicating notes of smoky minerals and chamomile. Dry, nervy and very tight, with slow-to-open citrus and orchard fruit flavors and complicating notes of white pepper and buttered toast. Boasts excellent intensity and clarity but shuts down hard on the finish, which features strong…

A Test Of Greatness: 2009 Bordeaux Ten Years On (March 2019)

The 2009 Mouton-Rothschild has a very backward bouquet that is clearly nowhere near its drinking plateau, unfolding reluctantly with cedar and pencil box infused black fruit. Glimpses of pressed rose petal unfurl with continued aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with supple tannin, a mixture of red and black fruit, and veins of blue. Very harmonious…

The 2009 Clarets (Jul 2012)

Opaque, almost impenetrable purple-ruby. Closed nose hints at ripe dark plum, cassis, violet, coffee, minerals and ink. Opulent flavors of blackcurrant, minerals and herbs are pure and clean, with harmonious acidity lifting and extending them on the very long, rich, suave finish. This wine has improved considerably since the Primeurs. In fact, this is even…

Mouton Rothschild: 2003-2015 (May 2016)

The 2009 Mouton Rothschild is exceptionally beautiful. A huge, powerful wine, the 2009 possesses stunning richness and radiance, with plenty of underlying structure to support all of that exuberance. Smoke, grilled herbs, tobacco and incense give the 2009 much of its exotic, captivating personality. Seamless, opulent, yet with terrific freshness, the 2009 is sure to…

Bordeaux 2009: The Best Ever? (May 2010)

((a blend of 88 % cabernet sauvignon and 12 % merlot; 13.1% alcohol; pH 3.8; IPT) 78): Deep ruby. Flamboyant, superripe aromas of spicy blackcurrant, strawberry jam, smoky plum, vanilla, exotic wood and minerals scream Mouton (this would rate 100 points for its nose!). Rich, lush and powerful, with impressive fullness and volume to its…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Threes (Aug 2023)

The 1983 Lafite-Rothschild is one of my favorite vintages of the decade, and this bottle, served blind, replicates its showing at their 150th anniversary vertical. However, at first, it feels a little disjointed on the nose, but it coheres in the glass, offering lovely blackberry fruit, hints of pain d’épices, black truffle and meat juices….