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2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Full, deep red. Wonderfully sappy, floral nose shows more red fruits than black, along with complementary oak spices. Tactile, salty and sharply delineated, conveying outstanding lift to its classically dry flavors of red berries and spices. Obviously a very young wine and yet there’s nothing brutal about it even today; in fact, this is more…

2000 and 1999 Rhone Valley Wines (Jan 2002)

Medium-deep red-ruby. Roasted, tarry red fruits, animal fur and chocolate on the nose; as vibrant and vinous as a barrel sample. Extremely lush and concentrated, and already highly aromatic in the mouth, with notes of red and black fruits, roasted nuts, spices, chocolate and tobacco. Beautifully integrated acidity. Finishes very long, with substantial, very fine…

1996 Champagne – For The Ages (Oct 2014)

The 1996 Dom Pérignon Oenothèque has really turned a corner over the last six months or so. When it was originally introduced the 1996 was hard as nails, today it is an exquisite Champagne that captures the essential brightness and energy of the year. Lemon, slate, oyster shells and white flowers stain the palate in…

Vintage Champagne (Nov 2013)

(disgorged in 2008): Yellow-gold. Explosive aromas of ripe pear, honey, gingerbread and iodine, with intense smokiness and notes of chalky minerals and magnolia. Sappy, palate-staining orchard and pit fruit flavors are braced by exotic spice and mineral qualities, picking up notes of buttery brioche and toasted grain with air. Strikingly dense but energetic too, finishing…

The 2009 White Burgundies (Aug 2011)

The 2009 Puligny-Montrachet Pucelles emerges from the glass with crystalline purity in its finely chiseled fruit. It possesses striking mid-palate energy and focus, with sweet floral notes that add lift on the finish. This is a marvelously symmetrical, well-balanced wine loaded with sheer class and personality. Best of all, the Pucelles offers tremendous potential for…

2010 and 2009 White Burgundies (Sep 2011)

Medium yellow. Ripe stone fruit and honey on the nose. Fat and sweet but not quite as large-scaled as the Combettes, showing stone fruit and spice flavors. Best today on the insidiously long finish, which really saturates the palate with flavor. Plenty of verve here; still, I’d serve most of these 2009s a bit cooler…