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Cleaning Out the Cupboard: Bordeaux 1943-2020 (Jan 2023)

Even though the 2010 La Mission Haut-Brion was poured at the château, Jean-Philippe Delmas had to call for a second bottle as the first was clearly out of sorts. That second is magnificent. Brilliant delineation and almost overwhelming with intensity on the nose, there are layers of black fruit, pencil lead and a strong marine…

Bordeaux 2010: All That Glitters… (May 2011)

(62% cabernet sauvignon, 37% merlot and 1% cabernet franc; 15.1% alcohol) Deep ruby-purple. D eep, refined aromas of blackcurrant, cedar, minerals and wet stone on the reticent, cabernet sauvignon-dominated nose. Then very dense and powerful on the palate, with pristine blackberry, mineral and forest floor flavors and a supple touch that Haut-Brion doesn’t yet show….

2016 White Burgundy: Excellent, But Complicated (Sep 2018)

Pale, bright yellow. A bit deeper-pitched and more subdued on the nose than the Combettes, offering scents of fresh apricot, peach, vanillin oak and spices. Fat, pliant and broad, with its fruit sweetness leavened by saline minerality. Finishes reasonably firm, with good length and lift. This wine shows more mineral energy here than the Champs-Gains…

Bordeaux 2018: Not Back in Black (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Clos du Marquis is so expressive, and frankly, delicious. In 2018 there is a bit more richness than typical, but that is 2018. A rush of inky dark fruit, graphite, lavender, spice, crushed rocks and smoke all race out of the glass. All the elements are so impeccably balanced. The 2018 spent 16…

The Future’s Definitely Not What It Was: Bordeaux 2018 (Mar 2021)

The 2018 Clos du Marquis is consistent with my tasting note from barrel. It has a perfumed, camphor-tinged bouquet featuring plenty of brambly red fruit, and maybe just a hint of dark chocolate loitering in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins and quite saline in the mouth with fine depth. It is…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Deep red-ruby. Black fruits and a minty nuance on the nose. Juicy, minty and tight, with good purity and definition to the slightly medicinal black fruit flavors. Not a fleshy style but offers good energy and finishes with rather supple tannins.