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2004 and 2003 Red Burgundies (Mar 2006)

Full red-ruby, the deepest of these 2004s. Brooding aromas of black cherry, herbs, licorice and humus. Fairly sweet and rich, particularly after the last few samples, but less expressive today and showing some distinctly green notes of pepper and herbs. Cool, discreet, moderately ripe wine whose rather firm structure will require several years of bottle…

2007, 2006 and 2005 Bordeaux (May 2008)

Medium red. Very ripe aromas of plum and musky brown spices; redder in character and less precise than the 2006. Then big, sweet and plump on the palate, with full, mellow flavors of red berries, tobacco and mocha, plus a light smoked meat note. Finishes with sweet tannins and lingering, fully ripe fruit. This is…

Grand Cru Culinary Wine Festival 2015 (Mar 2016)

A rich, explosive wine, the 2012 Échézeaux is a real overachiever. Here the flavors are expansive, dense and layered, with all of the intensity of the year very much in evidence. Discussing the relative merits of vineyards is one of the central aspects of appreciating Burgundy. This tasting shows why Échézeaux is not as highly…

The 2012 Red Burgundies from Bottle (Mar 2015)

Good deep red. Sexy aroma of raspberry, orange blossom, Oriental spices, minerals, mulch and lightly vegetal herbs. Juicy, spicy and sharply delineated; tighter and more youthfully imploded than the Corton but quite pure. Finishes with firm tannins and a peppery element that gives the finish a slight tart edge in the early going.

Santa Cruz Mountains: The Compelling 2018s & 2019s (May 2022)

The 2018 Monte Bello is ridiculously young. There’s plenty of energy and drive, but writing a note at this point is rather superfluous. Readers should not plan on opening a bottle anytime soon. Early tastings suggest the 2018 is a Monte Bello built on linear, savory intensity more than volume. I very much like the…

A Century of Bordeaux: The Nines (Sep 2019)

The bottle of 1989 Léoville-Barton is probably the best I have encountered over the years; indeed, it is better than a bottle opened by Lilian Barton-Sartorius when I visited the property a few weeks earlier. It has a comely old-school claret bouquet of red fruit infused with cedar and loamy scents, and maybe some dustiness,…