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2014 Red Burgundies: Delicious Terroir-Driven Midweights (Mar 2017)

Deep, dark red. Darker on the nose than La Tâche, exuding aromas of boysenberry, black raspberry, violet, brown spices and smoky minerality. Like liquid velvet on the palate but with its purple and black fruit flavors energized by pungent, sappy minerality. The rising, utterly bracing finish shows great breadth and extraordinary noble tannins. This knockout…

Exploring the Tuscan Coast (Sep 2014)

The 2011 Sassicaia is soft, round and enveloping. The silky, textured style is a bit out of character for a wine that is usually a bit firmer and more energetic. Layers of expressive dark red fruit build to the open, caressing finish. There are no hard edges here. The 2011 has always come across as…

Tuscany Part 2: Bolgheri, the Tuscan Coast and More Super-Tuscans (Dec 2014)

Full saturated ruby. Very pure, floral aromas of red cherry, blackberry, cassis, minerals and minty herbs. Juicy, sweetly spicy and multilayered, with strong but well-integrated acidity giving the wine lovely early balance and intensifying its dark fruit flavors. Broadens out impressively on the back half without losing its shape. This silky, very graceful Sassicaia might…

The 1990 Clarets…To Have and To Hold (Nov 1993)

Very good cherry-red. Closed, phenolic nose hints at black cherry, roasted nuts and menthol. Highly extracted and unevolved almost aggressive today and not showing the extreme ripeness of the vintage. Still, concentrated and firm, with tannins under control. For the cellar.

2013 Barolo: Sublime Finesse & Elegance (Feb 2017)

The 2013 Barolo Cerequio is soft, delicate and understated, with a creamy expression of fruit, silky tannins and exceptional overall balance. Sweet floral notes, bright red stone fruits, mint and cinnnamon give the wine its aromatic lift and presence. The only thing the 2013 is missing is the fruit intensity and exuberance of the very…

Vinous Table: TentaziOni, Bordeaux, France (Jul 2019)

We start with the 2012 Barolo from Bartolo Mascarello, which is everything I expect. Perfumed, gracious and utterly sublime, the 2012 is all nuance. It is a real treat to taste and drink after two weeks of tasting embryonic six-month-old Bordeaux. It is also absolutely gorgeous with some of the lighter first courses on the…